John Moss casts off the mooring lines

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John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Hilton » Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:41 am

Yesterday afternoon John passed away quietly at home while talking in the lounge with the family.

In October last year John and Lynn came to the Middle-Aged Camping Holiday at de Pakhuys, Rocklands. John wasn't his usual strong self, although he did do some bouldering. A short while later he was diagnosed with cancer.

John was one of those great role models in life. When my brothers David and John, and myself, were kids in the 1970s, we looked up to John. He was big and strong and he was an accomplished climber. The picture only got better. He met and married Lynn. He became a professor of chemistry at UCT. He produced beautiful daughters. He climbed on expeditions all over the world. He became a highly respected yachtsman.

Many climbers who passed through UCT will have had great mountaineering outings with John. He was a long-time backbone of the UCT Mountain & Ski Club. Such climbing luminaries as Andy de Klerk, Ed February, Dave Shewell, Andy Wood and many others would have had more than a passing involvement with John.

John climbed a lot in South Africa. He established many routes around Grahamstown and in the Cockscomb while at Rhodes University. He did a lot of climbing with the McClennans. In the Cape Town area he put up many routes and repeated thousands. Much of his climbing was with Alec McKirdy, Mike Scott, Chris Harris, Doug Jamieson and Anton Fagan.

On the international scene John has a huge record. He probably did his hardest alpinism in Canada. He climbed extensively in the Alps. He was on Paul Fatti's Texan Challenge Himalayan Expedition. He was on a Baffin Island expedition with Tony Dick and others. He was on Patagonian expeditions and so many others.

John was also an accomplished sailor. He was an adventurer in the mold of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. He raced the Cape to Rio races, the Lisbon to Cape Town and many, many others. He had so many friends and admirers in yachting, but none more so than two of his greatest and closest companions - the legendary yachtsmen Bernhard Diebold and Skip Novak.

In the 1980s Skip had pioneered sailing to Antartica followed by high-speed skiing to climb outrageous unclimbed peaks - not the big-name hill-walks but the smaller, really hard mountains. This grabbed John and in 1989 he set about organising such a expedition.

The MCSA's big centenary expedition to Antartica in 1991 was John's doing. He persuaded Bernhard to supply his Antarctic-customised yacht for the trip. Bernhard skippered, John focussed on the climbing. I was very lucky to be one of the climbers, along with John, Paul Fatti and Doug Jamieson.

The trip was pretty brutal in parts, but the style was quite something. The expedition was way ahead of its time in thinking about minimal impact. And the climbing was fantastic with a couple of first ascents of beautiful mountains. There were also some dismal failures in the face of the worst weather in the world. To John these were all good. Just being there and traversing the same terrain as Shackleton was enough.

John was a much better man and had a much fuller life than I can convey in words. It was a privilege to have shared his tent, his friendship and his love.

From the Davies clan, our sympathies and deepest love to Lynn, Tara, Miranda and John's broader family. Go with love.
Last edited by Hilton on Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Chrissiej » Tue Jun 01, 2010 3:15 pm

I am very very sorry to hear about John's passing.

John was the President of the UCT MSC while I was doing my undergrad and was always a truly solid, measured and enthusiastic guide to a rowdy bunch of students hell bent on having as much fun in the mountains as possible.

When I later returned to university and chaired the MSC for a year, John was someone I knew I could always count on for advice, guidance or a casual chat.

My thoughts are with his family and friends.


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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by amm » Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:46 pm

To one of the great adventurers - rest in peace

lots of love to Lynn, Tara and Miranda

Adele, Josie and Paddy

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by crimppimp » Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:14 pm

The loss of John is sad one indeed

I had the fortune of knowing him as a climber, through the UCT MSC, and as one of his students.

He was a truly great teacher, with a flair for making his subject content fun and interesting. I can say that the time that I spent in his class was an important factor in my choice to continue chemistry as a masters student.

He was a friendly face around the chemistry building and was always happy to stop in the corridor or tea room and have a light hearted chat about the weekends climbing plans.

I remember sitting on a tiny ledge, high on lions head, chating about every thing from climbing to chemistry... not a moment that i can say have shared with many of my professors.

He was a truly special kind of man and he will be sorely missed by chemists and climbers alike.

My thoughts are with his loved ones and friends.


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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by RW » Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:39 pm

John's passing is very sad.

I am fortunate enough to have known John as a sailor, climber and friend. It always astounded me how he filled his life with so much. As a hugely respected academic, a totally competent climber and sailor and a dedicated and loving family man he always managed to make the most of every oportunity. His wry, intelligent sense of humour was always a highlight of our encounters and will be sorely missed.

My thoughts and deepest sympathy go out to Lynn, Tara and Miranda.


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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by adamr » Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:13 pm

I started climbing in the mid 80’s, by filling my adolescent brain with everything I could read about climbing in south Africa. This meant hours poring over back issues of MCSA journals, and I remember john moss as being one of the names that seemed to crop up everywhere. As a student at UCT a few years later I got to meet him at a cheese and wine or something. hugely intimidated at meeting one of my heros i started nervously asking if he'd climbed at various obscure places in thecountry that i hoped one day to visit. after five or six areas that i could think of i started running out of inspiration. "come on", he said, "you haven't caught me out yet!" - he'd not only climbed at but opened routes at all the places i could think of.

i always remember one photo from the 70's of john leading a pitch low down on the south face of the compassberg. for some reason this picture captivated me with the long vertical dolerite seams disappearing out of the top of the picture. It would be 20 years before i actually got to do the route but it always stuck in my mind. John's time in the eastern cape was prolific - opening routes all over the gorges, the cockscomb, the compassberg, swartberg pass, the transkei, and all manner of arcane poorts and kloofs. He was a real pioneer. I remember trawling some old journal photocopies in our tent when we finally went to climb his classic south face route on the compassberg a few years ago - john was obviously yearning for the northern winter climbing as one of their early ascents of the south face was in full winter conditions with ice axe crampons etc.

i subsequently climbed a lot of john's routes on a few trips to the E cape. It soon became obvious that the correlating factors between the routes were John and chimneys. John it seems was a maestro in a chimney, something i could never quite get my head around as it was at odds with his less than svelte appearance. the joke has always been on me on these pitches with embarrassing about faces to a "just how hard could 15 have been in the 70's" attitude. john opened many many classic routes - a lot of them the first forays at areas like pinnacle and momentum gorge that allowed the flood of routes that followed.

John was expeditions co-ordinator for the MCSA for many years and I remember Bob Woods shyly telling him of their plans to climb the South Face of Aconcagua. John spontaneously burst out laughing at the audacity of it. With his experience I guess he had far more of an inkling of what was involved. Bob was furious. It was a classic interaction between the old experienced hand and the young upstart, and I don't doubt had some role in motivating their eventual success on the route.

John was a full climbing generation before me and despite climbing many of his routes i never got to share a rope with him. My memories of him are the kindness of his eyes and the deep sonorous way he would say yeah in that inimitable north england accent and trail off somehow. He was a quirky surrogate climbing uncle who never seemed to age. i would love to have known him better.
Adam Roff

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by KimK » Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:16 pm

When I met John many years ago in the Eastern Cape MCSA, he was already a legend and a huge inspiration to us younger climbers. We lost contact over the years and I am shocked and deeply saddened to hear of his premature passing. Judging from the accounts of others, he will live on with many of us in our most exciting adventures. Thank-you John for those Cockscomb climbs and crazy Orange River kayaking. My thoughts and deepest sympathy are with you Lynn and your girls.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by MSG » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:31 am

I have know John and Lynn for many years, going back to the days when I was secretary of the UCT MCSA club in the late 70s. I have always regretted not seeing more of John, but cherish the moments we shared - the occasional combined raucous birthday party at his or my house, John teaching my kids to climb, a treasured book he once gave me as a gift...

Farewell to a kind and gentle soul, an adventurous and inspiring spirit, a brilliant mind and mentor, and an ever generous and cheerful friend.

As always, I will continue to raise a glass to you on our every birthday.

Love to Lynn and the family

Monica Graaff

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by derekrichardson » Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:28 pm

I recall in my early climbing years John's reputation as a climber, adventurer and mountaineer. As a youngster still finding by climbing feet, I was somewhat in awe of his abilities and experience. In time, largely through my friendship with Lynne, I got to know him well and, although I only ever climbed with him once, I realised he was a man much larger than that reputation: a gentle man, loving husband and father and a friend. Thank you Lynne for giving me the opportunity to get to know him so well. Tara and Miranda you had an awesome dad.


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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by muonmo » Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:48 pm

John Moss was a giant of a man.

He was to me, as to legions of UCT Mountain & Ski Club members, a heroic figure whose accomplishments in the fullest range of mountaineering activities were as impressive as his enthusiasm for them was inspirational. There could have been no more fitting President of the UCT MSC. He regaled us with his tales of adventures the likes of which we couldn’t even aspire to, and other less daunting ones we naively believed might also be within our reach. His annual President’s Rock Meet was many a student’s first exposure to climbing, and he shared his love of the mountains with each of them with generosity, grace and humour. He never interfered with MSC students’ running of the club, but he was always there to guide and advise us, and offer his wisdom when sought.

I gained a whole new level of respect for John and his undertakings when an epic trip to Robben Island and back on Diel (the yacht he sailed on to South Georgia) turned me into a heaving, retching wretch. I took a childlike delight in being able to lend him maps of the Atlas mountains when a conference in Marrakech presented him with yet another opportunity to steal away into the hills, living life to the full as always.

For someone so obviously accomplished in all areas of his life, John was modestly unassuming. He had a rare ability to relate to others with warmth and genuine interest, treating us lesser mortals as if we were equals, and as if only we knew the difference.

It hardly seems possible that John is no longer in this world. I admired him enormously. I am very sad to hear of his passing, and will remember him fondly. His influence will continue to be felt in many lives.

Love and heartfelt sympathy to Lynn, Tara, Miranda and all who counted John as a friend.


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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by codger » Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:49 am

I am saddened by John's passing.

John was an inspiration to me during my years at UCT and ever since.

I have the fondest memories of my interactions with him. He knew the Cape mountains so well and always seemed so happy to be out in them. I remember him telling Rik and I that the rap cord we were about to use was "It's a bit thin, aint it". That comment has made me smile and kept me safe for decades.

It would have been nice to stay closer these past 20 years. My condolences to Lynn, Tara and Miranda.

Dave Shewell

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by carlfatti » Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:57 pm

My brother Paul is out of the country and is very sorry not to be able to attend the memorial sevice on Monday 7th. He asked me to say a few words , as he and John were great friends and shared many experiences together , in the mountains and at sea.
Actually I went climbing with John on Mnt Kenya in 1974 even before he and Paul met. On that trip it was great to be with such a character as John . We made it to the summit of Batian and back before dark mainly because John knew from his Alpine experience that speed was of the essence. He was a tower of strength a few days later when one of our party had to be carried down the mountain with pulmonary oedema.
It was a privilege, to know him for all these years, to enjoy his sense of humour, his good company in the mountains and while paddling the Orange river. He will be sorely missed.
The sympathies from all the Fatti's go to Lynne and the girls.
Hamba Kahle John
Carl Fatti

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by gstewart » Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:29 pm

Very very sad to hear about John Moss. But it sounds as if he went peacefully and gracefully, which he would have wished, although he would have wanted to be around quite a bit longer. Here was a kind and gentle man.

We climbed so many of his routes around Grahamstown that I felt I knew him long before we actually met -- on the way to climb the crags above Camps Bay: Barrier Buttress and others.

The last scramble we did was to the top of Compassberg last year, to scatter the ashes of Don Maclennan, a poet and climber of note and father of Ben, Joe and David who also opened countless routes in the Eastern Cape, many with John, mostly around Grahamstown and most notably on Compassberg.

The Maclennans met John Moss after finding his name in the notebook on top of Compassberg and discovering that he lived a few houses away in Grahamstown -- Don and John both taught at Rhodes University. So do wonderful climbing groups come into being.

Farewell friend.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by DouglasJamieson » Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:16 pm

John, we will miss you.
Who would have thought that meeting under the tables at the infamous 1976 UCTMSC dinner at that greek restaurant in Mowbray would have started such a great friendship. The immensly poor judgement in agreeing to go climbing early the next morning with this new Eastern Cape/English drunken sot became ever more obvious the next morning. Subsequent we enjoyed benightings in Du Toits Kloof. An outrageous adventure in The Circe of the Unclimbables and the Nahanni River with our wives. (Who knew the Nahanni had Canada 3rd largest waterfall between our put in and the road we hoped to hitch hike back to the car from??) The South Georgia trip with South Atlantic sailing and wild mountain weather (36 hours in storm bound tent and memories of humour and telling tall stories). The braais, red wine and legendary slide shows.... Just as memorable was taking a few hours off from family and kids to sneak an early Sunday morning climb on Lion's Head. Big or small, everyday or adventure it was all good, fun and to be embraced.
Once I had moved to Canada we met sporadically but a slap on the back, some verbal mutual abuse about our respective characters and it was like we had been climbing yesterday. One has few such friends in a life time.
John's last challenge was the big one and we can debate over many pints whether he made the summit or not, but no one can deny the courage with which he approached the final pitches. He was blessed to have had the best partner for the final climb in Lynne.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Hilton » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:47 pm

From CP van der Merwe:

Although John may be best remembered for his love of the mountains, he was equally at home on the sea. Apart from his technical skills on yachts, he always had a very calming effect on those around him. We were privileged to have had him as part of the regular crew on the yacht "Freedom" for the past 10 years or so. He will be sadly missed as he now sails his last voyage solo across the horizon.
Go well, my friend!
CP,Nan and the crew of Freedom

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Hilton » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:49 pm

From Chris Harris:

In the last 26 years, I climbed more with John than anybody else. What I liked about climbing with John was his optimism (we would do it regardless of the weather, our ability, time available) and enthusiasm. What I especially admired was his determination to make the most of every opportunity – a lesson for all of us!
The trip to China, the week-ends at Rooi Els and his determination to walk down the mountain with what turned out to be broken ribs are among many special memories.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by geoffward » Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:39 pm

John was a special friend who I always felt comfortable with no matter what the situation.

His quiet strength, generosity of spirit and the calm confidence he inspired made times spent
with him occasions to be treasured.

I also so enjoyed that quizzical sense of humour that found expression in those deep throated
chuckles that spoke of insights and experiences gained from a deep and very full life.

One particular memory that will always stay with me was at the end of one of our paddling trips
on the Orange.

At the time the Fish River had recently come down in flood and washed away the causeway at the
confluence of the Fish and the Orange. The result was that when our party had to pull out at this
point we all felt a bit short changed as we were all up for a few more nights on the river and a lot
more rapids.

It was a hot mid afternoon when we started to unpack and load up the canoes when John discovered
that he still had a full bottle of brandy. Well there were not a lot of takers but John and I took on the responsibility of finishing the bottle. The party progressed rapidly to the point where we both ended up
sitting in the river with rocks on our chests to stop ourselves being washed away by the fast flowing current
until the bottle was well and truely empty.

At the time it was our way of getting back at the river gods that had called a premature end to our trip on the river and in a sense I feel it mirrors Johns own sadly shortened journey in that it reflects John's own determination
to live life to the fullest right to the very end.

Our love to Lyn and the girls from the Ward family we will all miss him.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by cMc » Tue Jun 08, 2010 11:34 am

Dear Lyn, Tara, Miranda and of course, Chris,
It is with great sadness that I learn of John's passing as the terrible news filters around to Australia. He was a greatly inspiring man who I will never forget.

Funny he did not like to put his car through the same adventures as his body........ I remember the disapproving grunts when he discovered that Chris ( his brother, for those who do not know) had loaded 2 large canadian canoes on his smallish BMW for a trip down the Berg river! er Hum!

Love from Caroline McIntyre Johnson and Anton Johnson in Adelaide, Australia

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Hilton » Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:04 pm

From Art McGarr:

Some Adventures with John Moss

From the time I first encountered John in 1969, drinking beer at the Magaliesberg Hotel after a week end of rock climbing with the Wits Mountain Club, I admired him for his amazing ability to jam so much into his life. At that time he was a lecturer at Rhodes University in chemistry and at the same time was opening all sorts of new routes in the mountains of the eastern Cape. I was just a novice climber newly arrived from the U.S. and so I was part of the admiring audience in the hotel lounge that evening as John regaled all of us with his latest climbing exploits.

Fast forward to September 1982 and the Texan (cigarette) Challenge, an expedition led by Paul Fatti to climb a previously-unclimbed peak in the Himalayas. For me, it was an opportunity to get acquainted, finally, with this amazing adventurer, John Moss, who always seemed to be in the thick of things whenever there was an exciting expedition to some remote mountain area. On the flight between Johannesburg and Sri Lanka, I was lucky to have a seat by John and so from the conversations we had during many hours, I gained an appreciation for John's incredible life style. It seemed that John was leading at least three parallel and full lives - mountaineering adventure, trans-ocean yacht racing, and professor of chemistry with an ambitious research program and students galore.

Some weeks later, when we were high on the mountain, dealing with daily storms and altitude, I had the good fortune to be John's climbing partner, an excellent opportunity to learn from his vast experience in big mountain technique. Whether we were climbing spectacular ridges or sheltered in a tent in a high-wind storm, John always seemed to be completely relaxed, enjoying the moment, and on top of any situation.

In 1985, I think, during one of John's many sabbaticals at Caltech, he decided that a ski trip across the high Sierras would be just the thing and so our two families converged at the campground at Crowley Lake, on the eastern side of the Sierras on an Easter week end. From there we went up Mammoth Mountain to the ski lodge where we bid farewell to our families to ski northward, over Donahue Pass and then through Yosemite Park wilderness to our destination in Yosemite Valley, where we planned to arrive three days later. Thanks to John's marvelous sense of efficiency and organization we were like the Swiss railroad, getting to the Valley almost exactly when we said we would. Experiences there about ten years later made me realize that our enjoyable ski tour was really much more of a challenge than it seemed at the time with John.

The international airport in Buenos Aires in late March, 2005, was where I said goodbye to John for the last time over numerous glasses of beer. From there we were all heading our separate ways home after a fantastic sailing/climbing expedition in Tierra del Fuego. It was thanks to John, his motivation, and his contacts in the sailing world that we were able to enjoy that marvelous adventure. I loved every minute, at least in retrospect, of this two-week battle with the hostile elements at the southern tip of South America, where mountains rise precipitously from sea level and ferocious storms are never far away.

It is sad to realize that John isn't with us anymore to talk us into more gripping adventures, but the memories will endure and continue to inspire us to avoid getting too comfortable in our own existences. Thanks, John, for some fine experiences and for being such a great example of how to get the most out of our short lives.

Art McGarr

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by callyh » Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:22 pm

I have a feeling John would agree 'better late than never' on a number of fronts, so I'll hazard this late posting......

I've been struggling to understand why I have been so profoundly saddened, so rattled by John's death, when I'm one of those whose interactions with him have been intermittent, so that I didn't know him very well really.

And I've realised it's because John was ALWAYS THERE: from the earliest days of my interest in mountaineering at UCT, Meneer Moss personified Mountaineer (only recently did I come to know the extent of his talents in yachting). Echoing what others have written, as an undergraduate student he as Prof and MSki President was too awe-inspiring to get to know, but he inspired us all right.Then he was big, craggy; grey beard, twinkling eyes. I moved away from the Cape after that, but Moss cropped up in mountaineering tales and articles like a leit motif.

Then a couple of years ago, at a doubtful time of my life (middle age had arrived precipitously), along came Jaahn.....(through corresponding on a journal article) ......big, craggy, grey beard, twinkling eyes, not a day older! with more youthful enthusiasm than I had encountered in youth for many a year, and told me to get out there, to get cracking and seize the day! Then I started to see how John had done everything, been everywhere, again and again. Everything that has been said about him is so true, and more. What a kind, generous soul, never mind the legend.

So the ediface of mountaineering has crumbled a bit for me with John's departure, and I hope all you who knew him well will keep every crevice, ridge and rampart of that mountain model vivid in your hearts and minds.

My deepest sympathies to his dearly loved family.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by robynroberts » Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:34 pm

How very sad to hear about John's death. I spent a year as his Chem hons student in 1974, doing lots of rockclimbing and camping in the mountains after hours in the lab. I moved to live in the UK but have fond memories of an evening spent with him and Lynn on a return visit to Cape Town - John made Pizzas, a crowd of mountain people came around and we watched slides of a recent trip.
It is many years since I last saw John, but he will always be remembered.
My thoughts are with Lynn and the girls.
Robyn (Smith) - I am the one who broke the leg up Waaihoek and was carried down in a mammoth rescue operation after a 3 day blizzard. - circa 1978 if anyone remembers.

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Re: John Moss casts off the mooring lines

Post by Marshall1 » Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:16 pm

Some pics of John Moss climbing in the Eastern Cape. Pics are taken by Mike McKechnie. Thanks Mike!
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Looking for historical pics of Eastern Cape climbing. Please make contact if you have any or have a contact of anyone who does have.

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