New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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SNORT
- Posts: 1223
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- Real Name: Charles Edelstein
- Location: Cape Town
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by SNORT » Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:49 am
Please do not remove the new abseil point at Tafelberg. It is situated about a rope length to the left (west) of the finish of Central Direct which from the bottom is visible as the very very obvious massive white flake at the top of the crag.
The abseil consists of 2 safe take-offs of 57m and 60m (std 60m ropes) exactly rappels.
The abseil on top is easy to find if you walk close to the edge you will easily spot it.
The 2nd point is on a ledge that is 57m below. On getting to the ledge walk left about 15m and find a thread and biner.
- Tafelberg Abseil Descent Frontal area low res.jpg (144.28 KiB) Viewed 2992 times
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mokganjetsi
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- Real Name: Willem Boshoff
- Location: Cape Town
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by mokganjetsi » Mon Nov 16, 2015 10:13 am
Nice one Snort! Thanks!
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Sam
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by Sam » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:14 am
The ritual 'walk-off' fades a little more at the expense of convenience
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proze
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- Real Name: Paul P
- Location: CT
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by proze » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:40 am
Sam wrote:The ritual 'walk-off' fades a little more at the expense of convenience
Totally okay with that.
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Nic Le Maitre
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by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:43 am
The second abseil is on the ledge at the top of the chimney on Frontal, before you climb the crack to the top of pitch 4.
Happy climbing
Nic
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Andy Davies
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by Andy Davies » Mon Nov 16, 2015 1:09 pm
Is this kind of convenience ethical? I thought trad climbing was meant to involve scratchy, hot epic walk-ins and even worse pant filling scrambles down chossy rotten gullies in tight climbing shoes?
AndyDavies
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henkg
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by henkg » Tue Nov 17, 2015 12:30 pm
Nee man SNORT! For generations of climbers the place has been bolt free. I don't agree with this.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens
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Nic Le Maitre
- Posts: 1368
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- Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
- Location: Harrismith
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by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:30 pm
It's not bolted, it's tat with a biner, like every other abseil station on Tafelberg.
Happy climbing
Nic
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Q20
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- Real Name: Richard Halsey
- Location: Cape Town
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by Q20 » Tue Nov 17, 2015 4:20 pm
Yip, and they even have finger tape tags giving the rap details, so they are not confused with being the site of a bail epic
One life, one body. Use them well.
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henkg
- Posts: 400
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- Real Name: Henk Grobler
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by henkg » Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:10 pm
My bad
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens
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SNORT
- Posts: 1223
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- Real Name: Charles Edelstein
- Location: Cape Town
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by SNORT » Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:45 am
The last time I placed a bolt was in 2008 when we completed Down Time at Yellowwood. I gave my drill to the ARF for use. Since then I have established at least 10 abseil routes all on threads with only one fixed point (a hex) which can be re-threaded as need needed.
Down Time is more or less defunct as an abseil route from the top and is really only useful if bailing from the Halfway ledge at Yellowwood.
The abseil route near Tafelberg frontal is elegant and simple and is easily maintained.
It allows for a quick descent if one wants to climb two or more routes in that area and also means you do not have to carry shoes etc to the top. Some of those routes are quite tricky and not fun to climb with extra kit.
