Crack climbing
Crack climbing
This sounds odd but where can one practice crack climbing in South Africa?
- justin
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- Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Re: Crack climbing
Crack of Dawn (17) at Lakeside and Peers Cave there is a (short) beautiful crack line (I forget the name).
There are a few crack lines at Paarl Rock too.
What you training for?
There are a few crack lines at Paarl Rock too.
What you training for?
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justin@climbing.co.za
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- Thermophage
- Posts: 431
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- Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
- Location: Cape Town
Re: Crack climbing
I also know a good plumber 

Re: Crack climbing
Training for a trip to America next year.
Re: Crack climbing
Well this thread turned out to be much less exciting than expected. 

Strangers have the best candy!
Re: Crack climbing
Unfortunately mostly horizontal breaks in our sandstone. But you can still jamb many of them.
Some inspiration below.
Some inspiration below.
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You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens
- robertbreyer
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- Real Name: CityROCK
Re: Crack climbing
RevealoMango @ Silvermine Main Crag has a decent vertical wide hand crack on it.
And Pistolero has a good move or two on it as well. Have seen one or two people falling out of it as it's a narrow hand jam.
Both grade 20.
And at CityROCK in the corner newish section you will find two pretty staunch hand jam sections as well.
Free coffee for you if you onsight one (only on TR, sorry).
And Pistolero has a good move or two on it as well. Have seen one or two people falling out of it as it's a narrow hand jam.
Both grade 20.
And at CityROCK in the corner newish section you will find two pretty staunch hand jam sections as well.
Free coffee for you if you onsight one (only on TR, sorry).
Re: Crack climbing
Try Bastille crack on Lion's Head granite. its a 20 offwidth that is quite memorable...
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Re: Crack climbing
Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice. Take lots of #4 cams for That Thing. As AdK apparently said: "It's like trench warfare".
Mischief and Thuggery at Oorlogskloof.
Aquaballs at Blyde.
Pretenders at Boven.
Mischief and Thuggery at Oorlogskloof.
Aquaballs at Blyde.
Pretenders at Boven.
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Re: Crack climbing
Mischief and Thuggery....on trad
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Re: Crack climbing
Highway man (16) on Lions head is also cool if you stay in the crack 

Boulder for strength
Trad for life
Trad for life
Re: Crack climbing
Isn't Illearth Stone a nasty roofcrack too?Julia Wakeling wrote:Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice.
Re: Crack climbing
Julia that is a mad challenge! Well done, but I won't be trying any time soon. Boven also has some great crack, but I remember a prominent South African Climber once saying "Cracks are for South African climbers to bury their heads in and cry". South Africa is not the home of crack, but head for granite, and keep your chin up!
Sandbagging is a dirty game
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Re: Crack climbing
Best way to practice is to look for every oppurtunity to snuggle your hand into an accomodating crack. Don't be fussy about only fisting vertical cracks, horizontal ones provide good entertainment too. Some people even manage to jam in shallow pockets, but if you are off to Yosemite I suggest you get your whole body involved in chimneys and off widths. Don't forget to cover up appropriately, else you may contract Some Terrible Dings 

AndyDavies
- Nic Le Maitre
- Posts: 1308
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- Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
- Location: Stellenbosch
Re: Crack climbing
Climb Africa Cracks on the Ledge, it's a 15 I think
Crack Baby at Legoland is climbable all in the crack
Crack Baby at Legoland is climbable all in the crack
Happy climbing
Nic
Nic
Re: Crack climbing
Morgans Bay
Re: Crack climbing
Harrismith, Eagle Mountain...
Above the campsite is dolerite clifs with amazing crags at places up to 70m high and hard aswell! Its basically unexplored, so you can do a bunch of FA's too
The walkin is tough though..
PS. If you find our nr3 BD cam, please leave it, we will return for it sometime
Above the campsite is dolerite clifs with amazing crags at places up to 70m high and hard aswell! Its basically unexplored, so you can do a bunch of FA's too

The walkin is tough though..
PS. If you find our nr3 BD cam, please leave it, we will return for it sometime
Re: Crack climbing
Wilgepoort has probably got the best crack climbing in South Africa
Re: Crack climbing
Pride, grade 20 (on Lion's Head)
Pitch 2 is very good short finger layback crack with minimal feet, I highly recommend it.
Pitch 2 is very good short finger layback crack with minimal feet, I highly recommend it.
Last edited by NatureBoi on Mon Nov 12, 2018 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- danglingdingle
- Posts: 166
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- Real Name: Kevin Dingle
Re: Crack climbing
"Prelude to waste lands", First pitch is a beautiful, wide (#4 freind) laybabck crack.
Been up on it a couple of times, It is a bar fight from start to finish.
A few fist jams, one hand jam, layback and stem, bit of everything.
And has top rope chains.
Been up on it a couple of times, It is a bar fight from start to finish.
A few fist jams, one hand jam, layback and stem, bit of everything.
And has top rope chains.
Re: Crack climbing
Ok - I see this is an old thread, but let me throw in my 2c worth...
World's View in Pietermaritzburg has Widow Maker (15), Killer 1 (15) and Killer 2 (14). Zig-Zag (18) is also one on that crag. There is a really easy offwidth somewhere on there, but I haven't managed to find it before.
Zig Zag is the crack near the tree on the left
The left hand 2 cracks are Killers and The one in the corner is Widow Maker

World's View in Pietermaritzburg has Widow Maker (15), Killer 1 (15) and Killer 2 (14). Zig-Zag (18) is also one on that crag. There is a really easy offwidth somewhere on there, but I haven't managed to find it before.
Zig Zag is the crack near the tree on the left
The left hand 2 cracks are Killers and The one in the corner is Widow Maker
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly
Re: Crack climbing
Some great crack (hand jam) pitches on No More Bells (19), Chess Pieces, Du Toits Kloof
Re: Crack climbing
3rd pitch ( I think) of Satisfaction Guaranteed, Wolfberg.
Great line!
Great line!
Re: Crack climbing
Agree with No More Bells - brilliant cracks!
Also Satisfaction guaranteed - great 3rd pitch!
The crack variation to the 3rd pitch on Omega at Wolfberg is great, thin technical crack climbing for 40m
Also Satisfaction guaranteed - great 3rd pitch!
The crack variation to the 3rd pitch on Omega at Wolfberg is great, thin technical crack climbing for 40m

- justin
- Posts: 3826
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- Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Re: Crack climbing
On Heaven Can Wait (23) at the Rose Bowl, the last 3 meters of the 2nd pitch has an awesome (slightly overhanging) crack.
Great route!
Great route!
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justin@climbing.co.za
justin@climbing.co.za
Re: Crack climbing
Looks like it would be a bigger number than that!
Re: Crack climbing
Great hand jams, finger locks and laybacking on Jam Puff, Lion's Head granite, Highly recommend this under rated route!
Re: Crack climbing
I was telling one of the wide boyz about Cuckoo's Nest on TM, and tried, but failed, to find any pics of it online. Are there any about? I recall a sequence of Jeremy W-S in an old MCSA journal, and an article by jeremy Colenso in an old Southern Rock(?), but nothing online.