How did that route get that name? Jokes. Funny bits. Crag humour.
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm


Post by shorti »

I read this by chance in the Lower Tonqs RD. I can imagine it to have been rather funny. Trad climbing definitely favours the innovators. Btw, this is why you can't use a cycling helmet! R.I.P. Tony.

40m below the Wade Pool which is below the Cedarberg-Tonquani
junction is a prominent narrow buttress capped by a prow. Gain the
vegetated ledge which runs left at 6m. Start 5m left of the centre of
the prow buttress.
1. 12m 13 Make an awkward move to surmount two rock
steps in a shallow recess and continue to a tree belay on the right,
below a large flake crack.
2. 12m 15 Move right and up right to a small ledge on the face
of the buttress. Continue directly up the face to a narrow ledge and
peg belay near a block at the right end
3. 9m 18 Ascend the right arete a few metres and move
strenuously into the groove on the right. (The belay peg was used
as a foothold in opening ascent). Continue more easily up to a large
ledge and belay.
4. 15m 19 Move up onto a block on the left arete and make a
very "long" reach to a good hold. Pull up strenuously and continue
up to a belay above the chimney. (The "long" reach was so long
that the leader stood on his helmet to gain the height required. G2
20 without helmet?)

5. 18m 15 Traverse right under the prow (5m) and ascend the
chimney-crack to the top.
1. Instead of pitch 1 as described ascend shallow chimney 3m
further to the left.
Note: An aggressive starling who did not appreciate the
presence of the leader had Kamikaze inclinations - hence the name.
First ascent: Dec 1968 A.D. Barley and A.C. Carmen.

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