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Belay device

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:40 pm
by ryancrawcour
howdy ....

i'm looking at getting a new belay device as my trusty ole figure8 just aint cutting it any longer. sure i know there are these fancy auto devices out there, but somehow i guess i prefer the age old trusted manual method more.

now the question is .... what to do for?

Black Diamond ATC XP ... roductId=9

Black Diamond ATC Guide ... ductId=123

Mad Rock Paradox ... ductId=543

or last, but not least
DMM Bug ... ductId=456

what say ye all?
any others that i have missed?

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:47 pm
by JonoJ
What'll you be using it for.... toprope, single-pitch sport, multi-pitch sport, trad?

BD ATC is a great all rounder.

BD Guide is great for trad.

Petzl Reverso is also great for trad.

The Bug is probably the cheapest good all rounder.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:49 pm
by ryancrawcour
right now mainly for sport and top rope. ultimatley i'd like to hit the trad routes, but right now i wanna practise good technique etc first and when i can comfortably climb a decent grade on a sport route i'll take the next plunge and accquire a trad rack.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 3:01 pm
by stephan

No question in my mind, go for the BD ATC Guide.

I wanted to buy the BD Guide a while ago, which I did do, and it really is great!!

Read the discussion at ... +atc+guide

Re: Belay device

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 3:07 pm
by ryancrawcour
Baldrick wrote:How about checking ours
shameless punt there Baldrick, :P, but thanks i'll check it out. being new to the sport i guess i only know of the more well known brands like BD, Petzel, DMM etc. but learning is part of the fun ....

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 3:49 pm
by fanta
I would highly recomend the ATC Guide!!!

I explained myself here already:


Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 3:56 pm
by Chalk
I recently got an ATC Guide – best buy out!

I have also found that hanging the Guide by the ring as opposed to the cable stops it from twisting and will probably prolong its life.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:33 pm
by grrr
Petzl has a new version of the Reverso coming out... ... php?p=8367


Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:56 am
by fanta
The new Petzl Reverso is almost an exact copy of the guide!?!?
Just goes to show BD got it right the first time :lol:

One thing I would like to crit about the Petzel 1...
The big ring used to hang the device in an auto block config; looks alot smaller. I really like the Guides big loop as it passes very easily over the screwing mechanics that surrounds the gate on screw up biners. Even the fat twist lock I use for my belaying is not a problem. It would seem to me as though Petzl just tried to make there device the same as the Guide but only lighter.

I'll stick to my Guide for now thanks...


Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:22 am
by douard
The Tre is a great device. it has a self locking mechanism and can take two ropes. it's excellent for trad as well as sport climbing.

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:30 am
by fanta
I know of a few people that rave about the Tre... I have never used one myself. Aparantly you never have to unclip it while threading the ropes, thereby reducing the risk of ever dropping it. The down side for me is that is has moving parts...


Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:56 pm
by BAbycoat
The Tre is great for double 9mm's - i.e. trad. When only one channel is loaded (like when you're climbing sport), I find the device doesn't sit perfectly flat and ends up putting twists in the rope.

RCC - if you're currently into sport, and only looking to move into trad later, stick with Fanta's advice and go with the Guide.

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:36 pm
by Russell Warren
I have been using a tre for sport and trad for about 3 years now and in my opinion it is one of the safest belay devices around (once you know how to use it). It works well or bolting as well. I use 2 x Beal Cobras for trad (8.6mm I think) and a Roca 10.5mm for sport and the device handles both ropes well. I have experienced the twisting referred to above once, but with somebody elses rope. That said I think the tre really shines for trad.

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 1:46 pm
by The Lentil
All the TRE discussion is great but i bit irrelevant - TRE is no longer sold in South Africa.

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:27 am
by ryancrawcour
Thanks for the info and advice Guys ... i've placed an order for the Guide. can't wait.

Belay devices

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 10:51 am
All belay devices have pros and cons. By far the best device is the one that you have the most experience with and I can talk with absolute authority on this. After 30 years of climbing and catching hundreds of falls mostly using a sticht plate or ATC I have the un-enviable reputation of dropping a climber using the ATC XP and then using the Trango Cinch. Both devices were new ot me and there is nothing wrong with either if you are familiar and experienced in using them.

I have converted to using the Tre (with the Bugette as back up )and a careful review of their attributes show their advantages compared to other devices whetehr for sport, trad or guiding as you really only want to use one device. Both devices rely on added friction with tension and the Tre does lock like a Grigri. The big advantage is that the feeding hand is always on the breaking side of the device and the Tre locking system does not require being held open.

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:18 am
by Scott
edelrid has a new device similar to the TRE but more geared towards sport.

The Zapomat. used it briefly but do not have much of an opinion yet. Small, light and variable tension for thin or fat ropes/climbers.