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Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:02 am
by Kenna

Does anybody know the state of the bolts/anchors for Crossfire at Hellfire crag? I'm itching to go climb the route but last time I was at Hellfire the a set of anchor rings on Pillar of pain were quite rusted. Don't want to run into that dilemma on another route again.

Thank you in advance

Re: Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 11:28 am
by Warren G
I attend many of the Anchor Replacement Fund rebolts days an I strongly encourage you to help rebolt in the areas you climb. Personally I try contribute 5% of my climbing time to contributing to the community, and the easiest way is to help rebolt.

ARF have spoken about what are the most urgent crags needing a rebolt, and all agreed that Kalkbay and Kleinmond are the most pressing- both have seen bolt failures. This weekend we are going for the Nth trip to Kleinmond, hopefully getting very close to finishing off the area. The rebolt will be happening on Saturday, why not come and help?

We have left a couple routes at Kalk because we feel they are safe for the next few years, and I am hoping we get to Hellfire soon- not because we think they are urgent, but because its the next on the list, and some routes need it.

Re: Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:10 pm
by XMod
Firstly the EMP for bolting at Hellfire is still in the approval stage so any talk of bolting there (ARF included) is premature and would be illegal as there is no permit in place. The crag is pretty far from the sea although does occasionally get salt air incoming when the south easter is really howling. The danger of SCC occurring in bolts there is low and I would imagine that thus the crag should be equally low on the priority list for ARF action (there is still a LOT of work needed in high priority areas like Silvermine).

If you find an anchor that is rusted beyond what you find acceptable please feel free to buy some new hanger/ring/biner sets and install them on the existing bolts :) . The stuff Raumer makes :mrgreen: is probably the most corrosion resistant judging from how things are wearing at Kalk Bay (corrosion intensive zone). I would suggest that any anchor at Hellfire is probably only exhibiting surface rust and is most likely still bombers, if you don't want to lower off a rusty ring (and couldn't be bothered to put your money where your mouth is and contribute to the upkeep of equipment) then just abseil instead which wont mess up your rope.

Re: Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:41 am
by mokganjetsi
not a bombproof method, but if anchors are looking a bit doge I will keep the draw in on the last bolt; lower off a bit to see if it holds; ad then only remove the draw. you have at least a 3rd safety point in place to check that the lower-offs are not rotten.

i also think hellfire relatively low risk in terms of bolt corrosion. and a way more bitch'n crag than the seaside craglets :wink:

Re: Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:59 am
by XMod
Just to clarify things seeing as the crag is mentioned:

I have written up a draft EMP for Hellfire/Waterfront which has had a preliminary check by CapeNature and been returned with comments and suggested changes. What remains to be done is to finalise the changes and do a site visit with CN to assess the path and crag condition. The draft EMP will then be tabled for examination and hopefully approval by CN top brass. As this is the fire season and the head ranger concerned heads up the fire workforce, I do not foresee this all happening this year. Hopefully, if all goes well - and it is so far, we will see approval during the course of 2015.

I have mooted a plan to beef up protection one a few routes where dangerous situations exist on otherwise safe routes, BUT the run-out scare fests like Judge Dread will not be made into clip-ups and the generally airy nature of the older routes will be preserved. I would also like to modernise and check through all the existing anchors to make sure everything is sound. Of course all of this will only happen once the EMP is in place and further consultation with FA's has taken place.

Sorry the poster had a scary experience there, the advice in the previous comment is good. Be safe all and have fun.

Re: Hellfire Crag Bolt condition?

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:59 pm
by mokganjetsi
shot greg that's great news - thanks for your effort.

keen to do my bit next year to keep Hellfire burning.