Cedar Rouge

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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RyanCT
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Cedar Rouge

Post by RyanCT »

Hi All,

Last time I was in Rocklands I noticed that the bolts on Cedar Rouge looked pretty dire (still the old square hangers on some of the bolts). I'm heading to Rocklands this long weekend and I would like to rebolt the route. I'm willing to buy the bolts/hangers/chains and do the work, I just don't have a drill. Is there anyone who would be willing to lend me their drill for the long weekend?

Ciao,
Ryan
Last edited by RyanCT on Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
RyanCT
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by RyanCT »

Ah, one more thing - Does one need to get permission from anyone, or inform anyone in particular, before _rebolting_ an existing route in Rocklands?
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Overide
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by Overide »

RyanCT this was discussed a couple of weeks back check the post by douw:
http://climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16634
RyanCT
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by RyanCT »

Hi Richard,

Thanks - I saw that thread but it seems like that discussion mostly concerns the procedure for bolting _new_ routes, and I'm wondering what the procedure is (if any) for rebolting _existing_ routes. I'll post on that thread too though, and contact the MSCA climbing committee anyway just in case.

Assuming that I can get permission to rebolt - still looking for a drill though :)
RyanCT
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by RyanCT »

Ok. I spoke to Cormac from ARF - As for new routes, no rebolting is allowed without express permission from ARF/MCSA.

I'll just be taking photos of the current bolts this weekend - no drill needed.
mokganjetsi
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by mokganjetsi »

Stoked to hear you want to re-bolt - some of those bolts are dodgy. But check, I think a couple of the crucial bolts are newer ones (?). And bolt placement on that route is crucial. Thanks for taking it on though :thumleft:
rasmus
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by rasmus »

Been up recently. As Mokganjetsi says, some, safety crucial, bolts are new (-ish), others old (-school).
The bolts at the anchor are solid, as far as I remember, but the chains are a bit rusty...
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NatureBoi
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by NatureBoi »

1) People need to research before posting.
2) How many bolts have snapped in Cederberg.
3) Rust does not mean potential failure.
4) hangers are easily replaceable, bolts not so.

Peace and Love,
Cormac
mokganjetsi
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by mokganjetsi »

To support Cormes' - why not speak to an experienced bolter who is also familiar with the route?
I think it is a good idea to replace the old-school home-made stuff with gear we know is rated though.
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NatureBoi
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Re: Rebolting Cedar Rouge - Drill needed

Post by NatureBoi »

mokganjetsi wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 3:13 pm To support Cormes' - why not speak to an experienced bolter who is also familiar with the route?
I think it is a good idea to replace the old-school home-made stuff with gear we know is rated though.
Ta, could be as easy as swapping out the hangers, which we have, but let's get the photo's and take it from there.
Cheers
Cormes
Brussel
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by Brussel »

The Last time I was on Cedar rouge (many years back) I skipped the last bolt due to pump and then whipped at the chains. I almost strung my second through the first quick draw. If you know how thin he is you realize this was a real possibility :lol: As I fell I remember praying that the bolts would hold.

It's not just the hangers, from what I remember Many of the the bolts are old high tensile cap screws and really do need replacing
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NatureBoi
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by NatureBoi »

Once we have all the correct information we will make an assessment.
Cheers
Cormac
StefanusPetrus
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by StefanusPetrus »

Were these bolts ever replaced?
Brussel
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by Brussel »

nope.

I was up there a few weeks back. The first few are newer. the last three to the chains are terrible...they're the original ones. I took one look and climbed something else
wildx
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by wildx »

Great route, worth the ground fall!
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justin
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by justin »

wildx wrote: Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:09 pm Great route, worth the ground fall!
True... plenty of boulder pads (not to mention spotters) in the area that one could put down below :lol:
justin@CapeTownClimbing.com
Brussel
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by Brussel »

I fell off at the chains 13 years ago after skipping the last bolt...got to pumped and could not clip the anchors. I remember falling watching the bolt then and wondering if it was going to ping me between the eyes.

It held but I nearly threaded my belayer through the first bolt. I recon if any bolt other than the last failed you'd be seriously risking a ground fall. But the route is glorious.

Do the route to the right on the same block, bukketraub, really fun and it has better bolts.
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NatureBoi
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by NatureBoi »

Hi, This route has been scheduled to be rebolted.
Cheers
Cormac
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Q20
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by Q20 »

If selfless ARF folks do end up at Rocklands to do Cedar Rouge, at the Sunblock: Factor 15 has no anchors, and the ones on Coppertone and Blockout are not very inspiring... These routes are excellent, but the hardware is a quarter of a century old now...
One life, one body. Use them well.
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justin
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by justin »

Big up to Brian Watts, Cormac Tooze and Charles Bowker. Not only did Charles hold onto a few ropes, he was of great assistance and even cooked dinner both nights 8)
They spent the last weekend ARFing Cedar Rouge and Bukkertraube

They also installed new lower offs on Chenin Blanc.
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stingrei
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by stingrei »

Great job guys - sorry was stuck in CT with life admin
rasmus
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by rasmus »

Brilliant guys, thanks for the effort!

Are you planning to do anymore re-boltimng in Rocklands? I've seen one or two sketchy bolts up there recently. Would def. contribute with labour, gas money or whatever you need if it is on the cards?
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NatureBoi
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by NatureBoi »

Hi post requests here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/282374338536992

Cheers
Cormac
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NatureBoi
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by NatureBoi »

rasmus wrote: Wed Oct 20, 2021 7:45 pm Brilliant guys, thanks for the effort!

Are you planning to do any more re-bolting in Rocklands? I've seen one or two sketchy bolts up there recently. Would def. contribute with labour, gas money or whatever you need if it is on the cards?
Hi, Which routes?
Cheers,
Cormac
rasmus
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by rasmus »

The one I especially remember was Wild Bill Hickock at the Wild West Wall. One bolt is dodge, but another is placed 40 cm above, I am guessing to make it safe? Looks and feels a bit outdated and ugly for a great route on a good wall.

Some pretty rusty bolts at Orange Plasma area, but felt safe for the time being, so perhaps no need to be on top of the list, although worth a look...
stingrei
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Re: Cedar Rouge

Post by stingrei »

Orange plasma has glue in anchors a glue in last bolt and a new ss expansion bolt at the crux but the lower bolts are very old type. Will try sort it out by next season
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