Montagu bolts

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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justin
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Montagu bolts

Post by justin »

I am compiling a list of suspect bolts in Montagu.
If you know of any routes where the bolts appear to be suspect please respond here or mail me - justin@climbing.co.za or WhatsApp 0826964067

Many thanks,
Justin

Triple Stringer – Super Tubes – Bad Kloof
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micky
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by micky »

27 at bosch,

I vaguely remember a rusty bolt on Thruster too.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by illona »

Neuromancer, Activist and Cyberpunk rank quite high.
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tygereye
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by tygereye »

The 22 at Playground needs top anchors
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justin
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by justin »

Sent in via email
Badkloof:
Wax my gun and have some fun has missing maillons.
First wave has some rusty bolts and some rusty anchors.

Legoland:
Cheapskate student and cleinous hing have some rusty bolts.
Easy does it has a hanger missing at the anchors.
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mik
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by mik »

The first couple of bolts of Shouting Stage at the Steeple. Such a cool route, but in my opinion a suicide mission in its current state...
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XMod
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by XMod »

Sloth was bolted by me in 1994 using U-pat bolts. They should be ARF'd if not already. Move the top anchors up right above the ledge - or better yet extend the route up a level through the bulge above the small ledge to the alcove above (could even go higher???). There was a loose block just above where you pull onto that ledge which is very tempting to grab onto - this should be chucked off if it is still there.

Against the Grain has no real top anchors - there are anchors in the middle of the wall which I placed simply to get a rope on that wall as the natural gear above was crap. Anchors for Against the Grain should be placed just to the right of the top jug/hueco. This was bolted at the same time as Sloth and may also have shitty bolts.

The early routes at the playground probably also have U-Pat bolts.

Check Stealin' at Uriah Heep - this was also one of the very early routes.

I don't know what has been rebolted so forgive me if these routes have already seen attention.

The crux bolt on Delete Button (in the bulge) was placed in hollow rock (tap it with a biner and you will hear) this should be repositioned with a glue-in.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by illona »

The easier climbs at Uriah - Firefly (19) and Love Machine (21). Possibly the 23 there as well. Didn't have a good look.
Stealin' was actually okay.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by XMod »

Ja Stealin' might be ok, need to just check the type of bolts that are in it, if they're Hilti then it's all good. If U-pat; not so much regardless of appearance.
Stephen
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by Stephen »

Sloth: Two for the Show’s first set of anchors look rather rusty
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by illona »

Triple Stinger at Supertubes.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by illona »

The crux bolt of Burning Chrome is looking pretty rusted as well.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by LucH »

Anchors on Quasimodo at the steeple could do with tightening
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by hendriks »

LucH wrote: Thu Jan 14, 2021 8:42 pm Anchors on Quasimodo at the steeple could do with tightening
Buy yourself a spanner (17 I think) and next time you're out there tighten them. If you're a regular sport climber having a spanner in your kit to tighten the odd nut goes a long way in maintaining routes and giving back to the community and it takes only a few seconds, maybe a minute out of your climbing day. :hapban
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justin
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by justin »

Thanks for the feedback. I put those anchors in and the nuts being loose is most likely due to me not wanting to overtighten (over crank, thereby damaging the bolt).

If you do tighen bolts, please don't over crank them.

I'm often at The Steeple and will take a spanner up next time :thumleft:
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GClamp
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by GClamp »

I replaced the bina at the anchor of rolling stone. It was an old aluminum bina that had seen better days. Replaced it with a new steel screw gate.

The old chain actually needs to be removed from the top bolt and rather a hanger with an abseil ring added. Will look at replacing it next time I am there.
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by tygereye »

I seem to vaguely remember the bolts on Sukmeov looking scary?

And the top anchor on Gospel express only has one leaver biner (attached to 1 anchor only), even though there are 3 anchors. Perhaps we should just remove it to avoid people just clipping into the one biner at the top? It's confusing.
Another case with the leaver biners is that some people toprope on them - they do get worn quickly. On the one have it's probably better to replace these than worn rings at the top, but we must just keep an eye on them.
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justin
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by justin »

tygereye wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 2:16 pm
And the top anchor on Gospel express only has one leaver biner (attached to 1 anchor only), even though there are 3 anchors. Perhaps we should just remove it to avoid people just clipping into the one biner at the top? It's confusing.
I'll remove the quick clip anchor and replace with other.
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NatureBoi
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by NatureBoi »

justin wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 2:47 pm
tygereye wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 2:16 pm
And the top anchor on Gospel express only has one leaver biner (attached to 1 anchor only), even though there are 3 anchors. Perhaps we should just remove it to avoid people just clipping into the one biner at the top? It's confusing.
I'll remove the quick clip anchor and replace with other.
Does anyone have a picture?

The gold standard would be glue-in lower offs with double rings.
The rings can move independently, so they never wear in the same place.
A mechanical lower-off with a single ring can sometimes bind, which causes wear in the same spot.
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justin
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Re: Montagu bolts

Post by justin »

NatureBoi wrote: Tue Jan 26, 2021 8:43 am
justin wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 2:47 pm
tygereye wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 2:16 pm
And the top anchor on Gospel express only has one leaver biner (attached to 1 anchor only), even though there are 3 anchors. Perhaps we should just remove it to avoid people just clipping into the one biner at the top? It's confusing.
I'll remove the quick clip anchor and replace with other.
Does anyone have a picture?

The gold standard would be glue-in lower offs with double rings.
The rings can move independently, so they never wear in the same place.
A mechanical lower-off with a single ring can sometimes bind, which causes wear in the same spot.
Ok, long story...
After checking one of the bolts on the route (and finding the bolt to only have 4mm of metal left - due to corrosion) I rebolted the route.
The two top anchors I left in place and attached Quick Clip anchors. I then placed a 3rd top bolt and connected it to one of the quick clips.
See image below.
Image

My reason for doing this was to see how long it might take for one of top anchor bolts to break (with bolt bolts being backed up with a fresh bolt).

Last year one of the Quick Clip anchors approached 50% wear and so I removed the quick clip anchor and put a ring in its place.

For the most part, people should know to never trust a single bolt; that said I will remove the single Quick Clip and tidy things up so that the lower off's are properly safe and easy to use.

See also: https://www.climbing.co.za/2011/11/mont ... quasimodo/
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