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"Rated" Mallion

Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:16 pm
by GClamp
Where can I purchase a suitable mallion to replace on a hanger or use as a "bail bena".

I was climbing at Peers cave lately and some of the chains consist of nothing more than a really small and really rusted "d-shackle". Would like to replace them for safety sake.


Re: "Rated" Mallion

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:47 am
by robertbreyer
you can purchase them in Obz from CityROCK/Mountain Mail Order.
one example: R65 for a Petzl No 7. ... ductId=286

Re: "Rated" Mallion

Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:03 am
by Justin
Consider also using a Steel biner as a connector (you will need to glue the screwgate shut) - ... uctId=1567

Also consider putting a chain link or another biner/mailon onto the lower off (so that it runs from side to side and doesn't twist the rope).

Thanks for sorting this out :thumleft: D links/shackles should never be used for any climbing purposes!

For example:

Re: "Rated" Mallion

Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:42 am
by GClamp
Thanks Justin ... Would you suggest using a brand name mallion, like the petzel one or could you use something else? (from the hardware etc)

The reason I ask is that the petzel mallion is quite expensive and if I am going to put four of them on (as you suggest with the two linkers) then it is going to work out to quite alot?


Re: "Rated" Mallion

Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:51 am
by Andy Davies
Hey Gclamp - ARF can help - please contact me at andy.davies(at)eskomcoza

Re: "Rated" Mallion

Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:04 pm
by BAbycoat
Hi Guys,

There's a difference between bail 'biners and a proper set of anchors.

Here's the problem: if the protection and the biner (or mailon) are different grades of metal, then one is going to corrode preferentially - it's called galvanic corrosion. Either you end up with a manky, rusted bolt ... or a manky, rusted mailon blocking the bolt. And you end up with a bigger problem to fix.

So if you're bailing off a bolt, please make sure the bail gear is removable - so that someone else can remove it before the corrosion sets in. Clip-gates are best. Mailons and chainlinks aren't great, as they rust quickly. I'd advise against glueing a gate shut - unless you're willing to return the next day with a hacksaw to chop it off.

Proper anchors are best left to the professionals. Most bolt manufacturers sell bolt and anchor systems of compatible steel. It's possible to mix-and-match using hardware store or industrial gear, but (1) you have to know know what you're doing, and what grades of steel you're using, and (2) it's not rated for climbing, so is strongly advised against.

Andy is one of the bolting experts in the Cape, and has offered assistance. Take him up on it!