Crack climbing

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NatureBoi
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Real Name: Cormac Tooze
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi »

Nice off-width on Scottini's Chimney, Lion's Head Granite.
Chicken wings and arm bars are the only way to climb it. Crack too big for hand stacks!
Harder and longer than the off-width (P3) on 'Alone in Space' IMO
Cheers
Cormac
SNORT
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by SNORT »

Wilgepoort has crack climbs.

Outrageous Time and Time Lapse has 2 very tricky roof moves that work with hand jambs
mokganjetsi
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by mokganjetsi »

Latin Lessons at Bosch Crag (Montagu) is quite something at the grade. But let's face it (hehe), we do not have much in SA to prepare guys that want to go climb splitters in Moab.
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henkg
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by henkg »

Two pitches worth of splitter on SWW Spitz. Starting at fist and ending perfect fingers.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens
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NatureBoi
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi »

Nice hand jams on my new route
'On Cloud Nine'
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Silvermi ... _Nine_Wall

Cheers
Cormac
crigs
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by crigs »

Try Lion's Head granite for the best variety:

Silhouette Crack
Millions
Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine
Cave Overhang
Huguenot Wall
Huguenot Crag
Tea Trolley Crack
Bastille Crack
Hide and Seek
De Bruin Damage
Cross Cracks
Scary Crack
Jam Puff
Knuckle Duster
Encore Boulder

All of these routes involve crack climbing, from fingers only to offwidth and chimney.
oubaas
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by oubaas »

Bronkies has the very best crack climbing in SA
Joshiva
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Joshiva »

@Smityb Manouvres by Moonlight offers some fine features to jam. The grade 20 traverse pitch is long and pumpy and sticks to a horizontal break. The top pitch (19) follows an awesome dihedral crack (vert) before spitting you out onto the bulgey headwall, one of the best 19's imho. Africa Gullet (17) first pitch from upper africa ledge whilst not strictly jam crack will get you into the 3D style of chimneys and laybacking for days. To join the growing chorus; take the opportunity to jam all the horizontal rails you can find - even on bolted routes, amazing potential for rests on route. There's also some very jammable features on some routes on Barrier buttress; eg Barrier Sandwich and Barrier Pinnacle.
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NatureBoi
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi »

Reclimbed Cosmik Debris (21), Lower Silvermine on the w/e. It has a cool thumbs up finger lock followed up by a ring lock (crux)

The following day I did Blade (21) @ Hellfire, starts with an off-width followed by hand jams, I rate the route in my top 5 21's in Cape Peninsula.
:thumright
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NatureBoi
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi »

Gemstone (14) at Crown Crag, Hellfire is a short cool off-width. Used some butterfly jams. Good route!
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NatureBoi
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi »

Bat Outta Hell (14), Vampire Crag, Hellfire

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/sou ... 4706069280

Hand jams, fist jams. Cool line, Good views
DeanVDM
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by DeanVDM »

SNORT wrote: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:33 am Wilgepoort has probably got the best crack climbing in South Africa
The Cabernet/Muscadel combination route (F3 in the old grades) at Wilgepoort is the classic start to explore some of the Wilgepoort routes which have varying degrees of crackiness.

The Magaliesberg has a couple too and a number of them (e.g. Straight Edge Corner, Jelley Beans) in Mhlabatini kloof but Tonquani/Cederberg (e.g. Boggle) etc. also has some.
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