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King's Kloof

Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:25 pm
by Liz
I was wondering when the South East and South West routes will be added to the Wiki.

KING'S KLOOF - updated route guide

Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 8:31 am
by 1armbandit
I have been wondering too... I think lets help everyone out and put some route info to this thread as waiting is helping no one!
Anyone who has climbed the up river section at kings please contribute....

From what i know (Left to Right) DONT BLAME ME IF INFO A LITTLE OFF :oops:
South East

september 2012 edits in green....
4 June 2012 edit now with numbered routes and pics to follow

1. [4D, A] - 16/17
2. [5D, A] - 18 /19
3. Project [7D, A]
4. [6D, A] to left - 20/21??
5. [6D, A] - 23? - Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree
7. [9D, A] -20 - share 6 DRAW and A with climb 8. Starts on rock mound up smooth overhang shares chains with climb on right
8. [7D,A] - 19 up the main dark crack
9. [8D, A] - 22 - straight up the main crack
10.[8D, A] - 20??21/22 as most people who can climb 22's still get stuck on lead at the crux - moves left below roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left crux at bolt 6 to 7 (in my opinion is the worst climb at kings
11. Project - through the big roof
12. [9D? A] 25 + - long and overhanging (think only one ascent)
13. [5D, A] - 22 - Hard start
14. [4D, A] - 17 - Crosses over the 14
15. [7D, A] - 14 - climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge
16. [9D, A] - 17 - 6m left & round a corner from the 18 very long route bout 22m ***
17 [7D, A] - 18 - id say its a ****
18. [7D, A] - 15 - Crux is at the start, great warm up climb.
19. [6D, A] - 13 - Walking up river direction this is the last bolted route on your left. Very on angle, share chains with 15.


Please bare in mind the above is based on my opinion while climbing routes and chatting to other climbers and one bolter while at the crag.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 2:27 pm
by swissphotography
Good idea to get a start going. A few friends and myself have done quite a few of those upper section climbs, we are planning on going there on Sunday so I'll count the completed climbs from left to right (for now I guess numbers will have to do until they have names) and then propose our groups grades. Neil Margetts should have a list of the grades that have been sent to him from other climbers.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 9:22 am
by Liz
Thanks for the info Nic! At least it provides some starting point. Looking forward to hearing your views swissphotography. :thumleft:

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:05 am
by 1armbandit
Edited my previous post above with better info as i was at kings on weekend. Took a few pics with my phone but dont think worth adding will take camera next time....

please let me know if you think info accurate.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:47 pm
by Liz
Cool! Thanks NiC, we'll go check it out.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:06 pm
by dirktalma
I changed the grading of Golgotha to a 19. In my opinion it is very hard to onsight as a 18. Even redpointing it is harder than a 18. Compare it to other 18s in the area and you'll agree.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:40 am
by Garreth
I was wondering when the routes on the South East crag are going to get names added to them? It's Pointless having a route without a name. Im sure the guys who bolted the routes have given them names? :?: :bounce:

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:10 pm
by 1armbandit
Names would be great and so would be bolter's opinion on grades. I know since posting above i would change the grades abit as i have tried more routes and i have heard more info from peeps.

will add edits to my post above

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 4:04 pm
by Dulu
Hey guys. Anyone got any info on route number 3 [7D,A] at the South East crag? In the route guide it’s listed as a project. Is it open or closed? I’m keen to get on it but don’t want to steal someone’s “FA”... Somebody seems to have already done just that and suggested “25/7a+” in chalk at the base of the climb... Any info would be appreciated :thumright

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:41 pm
by ebby
Yes i opened that route about 2 years ago i think? its around 25 and i called it "big fluffy Christan bunny" :D. If you climb the route i would love to hear your opinion on it :P.

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:26 am
by Dulu
Awesome! Will give it a go an let you know :thumleft:

Re: King's Kloof

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:23 pm
by betrieb
I opened a new route yesterday at the North West sector. It is a variation of "Turn or Burn" forking out right by the second last bolt. I called it "Turn and burn" and give it 25.
Neil and I bolted it back in May 2012.
It has the same amount of bolts as "Turn or Burn"
I'd give it 3 out of 5 stars.

Cheers,
Johannes Hachmann