smalblaar ridge

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Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:03 am
Real Name: nix swart
Location: MZB

smalblaar ridge

Post by valconcorner » Sat Apr 13, 2019 4:33 pm

Anybody know a short cut up the front of the buttress to start SB so as to cut out the looong slog around the ridge to the back of the mnt to start the first pitch
The description : replace pitch 1 with this -
: from the grassy spot below the gendarme take the obvious line on the ridge :
was confusing and not found 3 yrs ago
we landed up ontop of a large buttress with a drop off which we could not cross
Time was waisted and we had to bail
Can a picture with an arrow be supplied to explain the alternate take off

Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: smalblaar ridge

Post by Brussel » Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:10 pm


see the attached pic. The lower read traverse from the scree is safer, the higher one is shorter but has a couple of airy and not straightforward moves. If you dork it here its going to be ugly.

From the end of the arete if you follow the blue line you'll have an abseil into the notch (tat in situ) and then continue on the ridge

the faster option continue around the back of the arete towards the chess pieces and then scramble up a poorly cairned steep gulley and then up further to get around the gendarme on its left (red line) to the stare which is the red circle

hope that helps
smalblaar_ss.jpg (119.04 KiB) Viewed 2953 times

Posts: 307
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:09 pm

Re: smalblaar ridge

Post by ant » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:13 am

Many an outing has been stalled by that gendarme...

Brent's second option is the significantly faster.
It's about 70m from the spot you can scramble to, to the half-way ledge, and can be simul-climbed.


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