Magalies link-ups

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Magalies link-ups

Post by emile » Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:12 pm

At the risk of further stirring the MSP access pot, I was curious to hear if anyone has tried the link-ups posted here:

It is indeed a bunch of fun, thanks for the idea, although I've not completed one yet. Let's just say between uhm "challenges" in interpreting the route descriptions and arriving at my climbing partners' place at our designated departure time to find him still in his (very cute animal print :pirat: ) pajamas we're at least making progress and having fun.

Anyone else have a go at it?

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by shorti » Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:37 pm

Seemonster and I completed one a while back. We climbed Red Corner, N/W side of Tweedledum on our way to boulder kloof, Planxty, Hourglass and Horseplay. It's great fun, but you end up walking more than you climb. Camping the night before will give you a chance to start earlier. I've also failed my first attempt, because of a traverse averse friend and then a stuck rope on our second to last planned route (short circuit).

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by Hector » Tue Apr 05, 2016 5:54 pm

I’ve done a few of these over the years. The first for me was Last Rights, Sabre, Sands of Time and Boggle, with Andrew Porter. I remember it feeling easier than we expected, but we knew the routes very well.
When Hilton made a rare trip north we wanted to cram as much good climbing into one day as possible so him, Ian Kotze and I did Hyperadrenia, Raging Bull, Sabre, Sands of Time, Doppler Effect and Boggle. It was an awesome, high-quality day. Hilton thought Doppler was the best route. He wrote a thing here:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5861&p=29097&hilit ... ect#p29097
One Blouberg training day Steve Bretherick and I did (if I remember right) Talons, Raging Bull, Doppler Effect, Hang Dog, Cat Burglar and Difficult Shapes. That was tough with some almost-falls towards the end. It paid off because we styled our Blouberg mission.
Colin Crabtree dusted off his old trad skills (the youngsters might not know he invented trad climbing in his youth) when we did Hyperadrenia, Alchemy, Slipstream and Sabre. Colin’s lead of Sabre was gripping – I think the last time he’d climbed trad they didn’t have cams.
Nic Grech-Cumbo and I tried a linkup of Alchemy, Sands of Time, Dogstyle and I forget the last one we planned. We got totally lost approaching Sands of Time from the top, ended up climbing in the sun and were in bad shape for Dogstyle later in the day, which turned into a dogshow. We called it a day after that. My bail wire is still there.
I’ve done one or two solo linkups of easier routes but they’ve always felt a bit lame. Half the fun of these things is having someone in it with you.
Stuff to consider: pace the walking and scrambling so you’re still fresh enough to climb (from the south the round trip is something like 10km), plan the raps and scrambles so one route flows into another, figure out how and when to haul your shoes and water, plan routes in the shade, decide when and where to get water, go as light as possible, keep moving all day – if you stop for lunch you probably won’t get going again.
The whole thing is obviously much easier if you’ve done the routes before. To onsight a linkup would be impressive at any grade.

I reckon a meaty day would be something like: Alchemy, Dogstyle, Just Hot, and Agonising Hands. They’re all 24 or easier, so hiking according to some. Still, it would be a bigger achievement than stealing someone’s project. Come on 9a hopefuls, show us you’re not just big talk. And when you’re done with hiking try In God’s Country, Rhythm of Youth, Dance Across the Centuries and Suicide – nothing harder than 27 so should be straightforward…

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by Old Smelly » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:33 am

Nice! Good one Hector!
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by KieranKP » Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:39 am

This is sick!! :hapban :pirat: Im keen to give these a go

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by seemonster » Mon Sep 02, 2019 2:17 pm

Magalies Linkup Trip Report

Bella Bella and I did a linkup this last Sunday. We started at Utopia at about 6 in the morning and headed straight for Tigatrix. I found Tigatrix harder than I remembered, maybe because this was the first real climbing I’ve done in about a month. Looking down from above the roof to see if my belayer wasn’t napping after the pre-dawn wakeup call, I saw I had cross clipped the ropes under the roof, so the last 6 meters was high friction power endurance weight lifting from hell. Topping out Tigatrix in one 50 meter pitch at about 8:45, we walked across to Lower Tonquani (knowing exactly where to go helps a lot). Two 25 meter abseils got us to the start of Hourglass where we filled up with water for Boulderkloof and had a quick snack.

We dispatched with Hourglass in one long pitch. I find starting up the left of the back wall of the recess ,mentioned in the route description, better climbing than the right and recommend the fall over move for an excitement injection (as opposed to the direct squeeze to get into the narrow part of the hourglass). I usually do this in two pitches, but it’s a super single pitch if you know the route well.

hourglass.jpg (135.64 KiB) Viewed 2169 times
Bella Bella doing the standard Hourglass pose

We stayed roped up for the scramble pitch to top out of the kloof at around 11 and walked across to Boulder, where I thoroughly enjoyed Slipstream (unlike the other three routes, I haven’t lead this one in recent years). After a quick abseil, to retrieve a cam that Bella Bella couldn’t persuade to come with, we had a quick lunch at about 2 o’clock.

Slogging to the top of Grey Gully, the idea was to do Red Corner next but it was in full sun, so we opted for The Moke. (This slog will probably be unbearably hot in summer and maybe it will make sense to do the routes the other way around in warm weather so one can walk from Hourglass to Tigatrix in the bottom of the kloof and have a swim on the way). The Moke was the pitch I enjoyed the most of the four! Superb climbing from start to finish! We topped out at about 4. Halfway up The Moke, Bella Bella realised she didn’t drink enough water, so she dropped my nut pick for an excuse to have to walk back down into the kloof while I waited on top gobbling down the last enerjelly sweets.

We were back at the car by 6 (so 12 hours car to car). My rough guess is about 200 meters of climbing and 8 kilometers walking. We didn’t run or chase ourselves, just steadily kept going, but it sure helps knowing the routes, abseils and hikes. Of course, like Hector mentioned, having a climbing partner you can share a kloof and a laugh with is an important ingredient to an awesome day. Well done Bella Bella, who’s only been climbing for just over a year and can already tick her first linkup.

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Re: Magalies link-ups

Post by Hector » Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:29 pm

Nice work, and what a rad linkup! They’re all classics, although I agree, the Moke is the best of the lot and one of the best in the kloofs.

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