Table Mountain
From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
There are many high quality traditional rock climbs just below the summit of Table Mountain. It offers +/-200 multi pitch routes, up to 11 pitches, with grades ranging from 9 to 32 so there's something for everyone.
Table Mountain is probably the first thing you notice as you drive or fly into Cape Town. It is "mesa" that stands ominously above the city. It offers excellent trad climbing with incredible views to go with it. Table Mountain is a National Monument, hence no bolting is allowed. Also, it is almost always possible to protect whatever you might be climbing with removable "trad gear" although there are some fixed pieces in situ. (a 32/8b climb was put up in July 2003). There are several abseil (rappel) points at strategic places; some with bolts and chains to assist with descents. Should you wish to take the cable car to the top, be sure to get there about a half hour prior to opening time to avoid the long queues in tourist season and on the weekends and public holidays in good weather. More information is available on Wikipedia [Table Mountain]
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The climbing
The climbing is stunning to say the least! The rock type is sandstone and of excellent quality, with great friction. Grades vary from easy to hard. The two main climbing areas emanate from Africa Ledge and the climbs are situated on 80m high cliffs below the cable car station that over-looks the city, and Fountain ledge which faces west over the Atlantic Ocean and Camps Bay.
Gear
Rack of cams and nuts - long slings are useful to avoid rope drag. 50m/60m, double ropes recommended.
Season
Take note: if you see cloud gathering around Lions Head there is a good chance it will rain during the course of the day. Climbing is possible all year round all, though it can get very hot in December/January/ February and July/August is can be cold. When the sun is not shining in Cape Town it's either wet or windy, or both! Keep a close eye on the weather report.
Getting there
From the city centre drive up Kloof Street (you will start to see signs indicating the way. The road turns into "Kloof Nek" higher up) when you get to the top of Kloof Nek Road, turn left up Tafelberg road and carry on up. When you see other cars park as close as you can to the cableway station. Walk up the mountain from right of Cable Way Station up the India Venster route but familiarize yourself with the nature of the difficulty by contacting the Mountain Club of South Africa or www.Climb.co.za. There are frequent accidents on this trail and requires a fair level of scrambling experience to do safely (Or take cable car - depending on financial status or how heavy a night you had). It takes about one & a half hours to walk up to "the Ledge".
India Venster Trail
Table Mountain has three main climbing areas that are accessible from the lower cable station. The first two areas can be seen from the lower station and are the two obvious buttresses that are visible up and to the left. The main climbing area that is home to the quality routes is situated on the final 100m or so of rock cliffs that support the upper cable way station on the north-east side (“Africa Ledge”) overlooking the city and also the west side (“Fountain Ledge”) that graces one with the most spectacular views of the Atlantic seaboard and sunsets that get sucked into the ocean.
The trail gets is name from the shape of the ravine that is situated between the two large rock buttresses already mentioned - it is shaped like the Indian subcontinent. The “Venster” (window in the Afrikaans language) is attributed to a view point framed by rocks on the trail although it is no mean feat to actually identify it. Local die-hards will usually fight off old age by trudging up the India Venster route to get to the primary climbing ledge fondly known to locals as “The Ledge. This is the quickest and most efficient way of getting there but is by no means trivial for the un-initiated and inexperienced. Many seemingly competent individuals have been seduced by gravity and have met an unfortunate end (including paralysis and death). So it is wise to familiarize oneself with the route and preferably find a companion au fait with it.
The hike starts about 50m to the right of the ticket office where the bus parking ends and takes some formal steps to get going. The steps are often concealed by the buses parked there. The trail is well built here and finds its way to a very well constructed stepped section that is situated directly under the cable of the cable-way. This continues to the contour path for about 10 or 15 minutes.
On meeting the contour path there is a sign that designates the trail and also subtly warns one of its dangers. From time to time the trail has been marked by painted yellow foot-prints and blue dots. From here the trail starts up to the left but almost immediately veers right (west) and gradually ascends the gully on the west (right) side of the right side buttress (also known as Venster buttress) mentioned earlier. After 20 minutes or so one actually finds oneself almost directly on top of this buttress and although there is no shade there is often a cooling breeze here and this is a good time to take stock and enjoy the view.
The trail is partly visible as it ascends and contours to the left (east) below the rock amphitheatre and the cables of the cableway to a point that almost reaches the sky-line visible higher and about 500m away way to the left (SE). The trail is well worn and if one should deviate from it then it should be obvious to retrace one’s steps or merely look back and see where you digressed from it.
2nd ½ of trail. The Google earth photo, unfortunately does not do justice to the detail and the angle of the trail from the level of the start of the scramble up to the ledge
As one approaches the east/left side of this amphitheatre, the trail abruptly becomes steeper and one is faced with relatively easy scrambling that should not ever result in difficulty. Again the passing of many thousands of people has caused the trail to be well worn and if it is not obvious then turn back and look again. There is no diversion, here or anywhere, that does not result in the trail becoming tenuous. Continue up this section for about 50m in vertical height and find the trail that goes left and to the sky line. (Do not continue up onto the broken scree of rocks above that clearly goes nowhere.)
The dangerous part starts now. There is a 15 to 20m scramble that has claimed many victims but anyone that is practiced with any level of scrambling and 3 point climbing should find it easy. The scramble is well worn and some of the holds are rounded as a result; but the climbing is positive and the friction of the rock is excellent. It is not particularly steep and not very intimidating and this is, perhaps, why so many accidents occur here. As one reaches the skyline the scramble is back and behind one up to the right in a series of stepped right facing corners and chimney cracks that total about 15m in vertical height. One then enters a deep shady gully with easier scrambling until one tops out onto the buttress above. At this stage the upper cableway station is about 400m above and slightly to the right.
The trail now wanders easily up and to the right to the next buttress (keep an eye open for the yellow footprints) and one traverses to the left (SE) of this on level ground till the trail ascends steeply again up and to the right directly below the Cable car station and 100m from the top. This is “The Ledge” and any trained climber’s eye will recognize this as such.
On this side, facing NE – called Africa Ledge – there are two tiers with the upper tier boasting very steep and overhanging buttresses with grey rock. And the dominant features are rails, overhangs and dramatic arêtes.
The trail splits and takes one left about 100m to the “Lily pond” where there is perennial water; or, right and around the corner to Fountain Ledge that faces west and the Atlantic Seaboard and ocean. About 100m or so to the left is an overhang where one can cool off and compose oneself in the shade. This is colloquially known as the “Tea cave” where much posturing, psyching up, procrastination and tea drinking occurs. This is the centre of this little climbing universe and should you find any old geezers drinking tea there, you are likely to be heartily welcomed (which means that you are going to be dissed and insulted.) If anyone is nice and kind to you, it probably means that they disapprove of you and you should move on.
Ignore their manners, get over yourself, drink their tea, eat their biscuits and give as good as you get. They will give you invaluable information of the conditions and the routes and, if nothing else, make your day memorable.
Food and accommodation
There are stores on Kloof Nek Road otherwise there is a restaurant on top where you can buy a full lunch, coffee & Cake or beers for sundowners. Sleeping on Table Mountain is not allowed.
Crime
There has been an increased rate of crime on the mountain, this is mostly on the lower slopes of the mountain. Be aware and dont go alone.
New Routes
COCK and Bull Butress
TATWOC 25
Start: The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.
Pitch 1 20m 23:
Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.
Pitch 2 20m 23:
Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge Pitch 3 25m 21: Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.
Pitch 4 25m 25:
Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)
Descent: The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.
First ascent: 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer begin_of_the_skype_highlighting end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting end_of_the_skype_highlighting and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!
First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008
Africa Edge 21
Start: Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.
Pitch 1 12m 16
Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22
Ahead is the next buttress.
Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.
Pitches 3 to 5
Pitch 3 20m 21:
Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.
Pitch 4 15m 20
Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.
Pitch 5 20m 22
Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.
First ascent: January 2009
Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick. Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein
Flaky Dog 21
Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.
Start: The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.
Pitch 1 25m 21:
Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.
Pitch 2 30m 21:
Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.
First ascent: C Edelstein February 2007
Mad Dog 22
“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the Africa Lunch second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.
Mad Dog 30m 22:
30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.
First Ascent 16 February 2007: Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer.
Fountain Fandango 21
Start: The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.
Pitch 1 15m 18:
From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.
Pitch 2 35m 21:
Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.
Pitch 3 35m 16:
Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.
First ascent: Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009
La Vida 21
Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.
Pitch 1 12m 18:
Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.
Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.
Pitch 2 17m 21:
Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.
Pitch 3 10m 19:
From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.
Pitch 4 8m 18:
Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.
Pitch 5 30m 20:
Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the exanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.
Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.
First ascent: Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009
Sweet Dreams 22
Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.
Pitch 1 12m 19:
Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right
Pitch 2 17m 20:
Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.
Pitch 3 10m 21:
Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".
Pitch 4 30m 22:
Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".
Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:
Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.
Pitch 6 20m 18:
Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.
First ascent: Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010
Moonlight Direct 24
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
Start: From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.
Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.
Pitch 1 30m 17:
Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.
Pitch 2 10m 23:
A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.
Pitch 3 30m 24:
Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.
Pitch 4 20m 24:
Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.
Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.
First ascent: Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010
