Rocklands

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki

Rocklands is undoubtedly famous for it's world class bouldering but this should not deter you from sampling the fine sport climbing. There is a large variety of quality climbing of all grades in both bouldering and sport climbing. All the sport routes are single pitch and you will have to do a small amount of walking to get to the different areas. Most of the original climbing is situated on Cape Nature Conservation (CNC) land and thus day permits must be obtained or a Wildcard from Cape Town or Porterville (small detour off the N7 on the way up). Many of the newer areas being developed are on private farms some which have small (30-40 rand)day fees.

Contents 1 Getting there 2 Getting around 3 Accommodation 4 Food 5 Classic Routes 6 Sport Climbing Areas 6.1 Wildwest Wall 6.2 Biscuit Wall 6.3 The Island 6.4 Skinner Boulder 6.5 Chappelle Rock 6.6 Black Slab 6.7 The Cedar Rouge Boulder 6.8 The Outback Area 6.9 Cattle Rustler Area 6.10 Rubik's Cube Wall 6.11 Orange Plasma Wall 6.12 The Sunblock 6.13 The Fortress 6.14 The Bastille 6.15 Adultworld 7 Bouldering Areas 7.1 Road Crew|Bouldering - Road Crew 7.2 Bouldering - De Pakhuys 8 Map 9 Photos 10 More Info 11 Bolting

Getting there

From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, take the N7 turnoff towards Malmesbury. Follow the N7 north for roughly 200km, eventually you come across a large dam after which you take the R364 turnoff towards Clanwilliam. Turn right at the T-junction and continue straight passed the town and up a small pass reaching a dirt road which is followed for about 16km until you hit another tar road. This is followed to the top off the pass where you'll spot a dirt road on the right. Park here and walk...

Getting around

A car allows one to access the full range of areas in Rocklands. The bouldering is spread out along around 20 km of road. After parking there are generally with a number of clustered different sectors within walking distance of each other. Assuming one could get to the DePakhuys campsite, it would be possible to climb there without a car (300 or so problems within walking distance of the campground), though getting to town for supplies (26km) could be difficult unless other climbers provide transportation.

Accommodation

Clanwilliam is the nearest town to resupply and is located about 20 minutes back down the road. It has everything you'll need in terms of camping, internet, restaurants and food but no climbing gear. Beancas currently has three computers for internet (slow but not horribly so)and the the gas station before the Shell has two.

Climbers generally either rent a house/cottage or camp. Most of the campground have cottages available for rent.

Currently, as of August 2008, the camping based climbing scene is centered at De Pakhuys with a large number of international climbers staying here. De Pakhuys (phone 027 482 1468 or 027 482 1879) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam on the right after the paved road turns to dirt again, and bouldering area is on the farm. As of August 2008, camping is 40 Rand a night with a discount of 10 Rand if you stay over 7 days. There are flush toilets, hot showers, electricity, a fridge, sinks for dishwashing, a covered communal braai (BBQ) area, firewood, and wi-fi at the campsite. The camping also includes free access to the bouldering areas surrounding the campground, which normally has a fee of 30 Rand for access. Chalk can be purchased here and bouldering mats are for hire.

Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm is also a great alternative. It is down the other side of the pass about 1km from the ending of the tar road. Accommodation consists of self catering cottages (with optional breakfast) at R400 to R600 per cottage per night (April 2006). Contact Connie and Liz at conniedt@worldonline.co.za or phone 027 482 2700.

Another alternative is Klein Kliphuis (phone 027 482 2564) which offers camping and self-catering accommodation. Klein Kliphuis is about 11km from Clanwilliam (i.e., closer to Clanwilliam than the Kliphuis campsite). Rates are R30 per person per night (August 2008). This campsite is less sheltered from wind than the Kliphuis campsite.

If it opens again, the best place to stay would be the Kliphuis campsite (sites are R90/night). The campsite is just next to the Pakhuis Pass directly after the road changes from dirt to pavement at about 17km. Unfortunately, this campsite is currently closed (July 2007, August 2008). From talking to the farmer across the road it sounds like the campground will be closed until new management is found.

Food

There are a number of supermarkets and restaurants in Clanwilliam, about 17km away. The supermarkets generally close around 7pm though basic supplies can be purchased at the gas station next to DeKelders until 9pm. There is also a butcher selling fresh meat, biltong and even Ostrich Eggs (feeds 9 people) in town that closes at 5pm.

Cooking equipment can be purchased in Clanwilliam. The fuels Benzene, also known as white gas, and Paraffin, known as Kerosene can be bought in small quantities at the SuperSpar supermarket on the main street in town. Bulk quantities can be purchased at AgriMark, also known as the co-op which is on the right fork of the main road near the PriceClub supermarket. Gas-cartridges can be purchased there as well.

There are also a couple of restaurants in Clanwilliam with the 'Olifants Huis' (steak & pasta), Beancas (pizza & coffee) and De Kelder (burgers, beer & pizza)being my favorites.

The campsites also sell minimal amounts of basics at exhorbitant prices.

Classic Routes

• Rubik's Cube (19)
• Orange Plasma (21)
• Ceder Rouge (24)
• Cattle Rustler (20)

Sport Climbing Areas

Wildwest Wall

Routes

1. Hand Job For The Holidays 25 2007 S Miller
2. Wild Bill Hickock 7b/26 6B 1994 P Schlotfeldt
3. Riding Shotgun 6c/23 6B 1993 J Gordon Shares the same start as above
4. Geronimo 6c+/24 6B 1994 M Roberts

Biscuit Wall

1. Brandy Snaps 6c/23 5B 1995 M Roberts
2. Vanity Affair 6a/19 5B 1995 R Quick

To the right facing the road three new routes from right to left.

1. Start the Wave 16 S Miller

2. Bandwidth 19 S Miller

3. Sea Legs 23 S Miller

The Island

1. Wet Pups 5-/16 5B 1993 M Roberts
2. Cracker 17 2007 S Miller
3. Up the Arete 6b/21 1992 J Fisher
4. Casting Illusions 6a+/19 6B 1993 M Roberts
5. Thoughtless Wanders 6a/18 6B 1993 M Roberts

Skinner Boulder

1. Skinless Arete 31
2. Cowboy UP! 22
3. Buckaroo 20
4. USDA Prime 18
5. Slap Happy 20
6. Hot Pockets 21
7. Cedars Arete 19

Chappelle Rock

1. Greys Anatomy 17
2. Orange Juice Jones 17
3. I’m Rick James, Bitch! 21

Black Slab

1. Beam me up skhatie 21
2. Future Shock 24

Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab NB: this is a 217kb PDF

The Cedar Rouge Boulder

1. Chenin Blanc 6c/23 5B 1993 A Lainis
2. Chateux Waga Waga 7b+/27 7B 1993 J Fisher
3. Cedar Rouge 6c+/24 5B 1992 Paul Schlotfeldt
4. Sauvignon Plonk 7a+/26 5B 1993 Dave Davies
5. Bukketaube 7a/24 6B 1993 Paul Schlotfeldt

The Outback Area

1. Billy the Kid 21 7B D Shewell 1994
2. Stranger than Technicians 28 9B A De Klerk 1994

Cattle Rustler Area

1. Fickle Sickle 21 7b S Miller July 2010 (About 60 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
2. Enter the Ninja 20 13b **28meters** S Miller May 2010 (About 50 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
3. Cattle Rustler 6a+/20 6B 1994 D Shewell
4. Cattle Hustler 24 S Miller Dec 09
5. Hearing Damage 24 S Miller Dec 09
6. Lefty Loosy 20 S Miller Dec 09
7. Righty Tighty 19 S Miller Dec 09
8. Sidewinder 7a+/26 6B 1995 Sean Maasch

Rubik's Cube Wall

Routes from left to right:

1. Smooth and Groovy 17 7B and anchors, FA: Bradley Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008
2.  ? 19 7B and anchors, FA:
3. Rubik's Cube 19 6B and anchors, FA: Mike Roberts, 1992
4. Crockett Rocket 22 7B and anchors, FA: Dave Davies, 1994
5.  ? 18 8B and anchors, FA:

Orange Plasma Wall

32 09 52.8S 19 02 07.8E

• Orange Plasma 22
• Testarossa 26/27? - right hand route on Orange Plasma Wall - up the blank red wall on small crimps then through the heucos. Climb it like you drive the car, else it will spank you. 20m

The Sunblock

The Sunblock is about 50m to the right of the Orange Plasma Wall. Routes from left to right:

• Alto Rouge 27 FA: Paul Schlotfelt, 1993
• A River Runs Through It 27 Deon Hugo, 2007
• Afterburn 26 Jeremy Samson, 2007
• Phalic Tan 30 FA: Jeremy Samson, 2005
• Blockout 26 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
• Coppertone 28 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
• Factor 15 29 FA: Todd Skinner, 1992

The Fortress

1. Backwater Utopia 6c+/23+ 8B 1992 J Samson, BB D Davies
2. Magic Mushrooms 7c/28 8B 1994 Sean Maasch
3. Soviet Dancer 7b/26 7B 1993 Sean Maasch

The Fortress Slab

1. Braille Trail 6c+/24 4B 1993 Sean Maasch

The Bastille

1. Unnamed Route 25 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
2. Unnamed Route 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
3. Unnamed Route 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
4. Unnamed Route 22 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
5. Unnamed Route 20 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
6. Unnamed Route 17 2005 a visiting Swiss climber

Media:ClimbZA_BastilleV2.pdf‎

Adultworld

This fun little crag has been gagging to be climbed as it involves some titillating jug fondling. It has a pleasant base which provides ample room and positions for spectators to watch the climbers grunt and pant through these highly satisfying routes. It was discovered by Andy Davies and overhangs about 8m in 24m – don’t be fooled by the picture alongside.

Getting there At Rocklands, walk up to Bastille and then carry on West past the “Vice” overhang on your right through some boulders to “Armed Response”. Proceed South up a gentle slope along the faint path through more boulders for 100m and you will see the wall.

Routes

1. Karma Sutra 23? - left hand route on AdultWorld - start off the block, up the groove with some interesting body positions then through the roof. 20m
2. Just Push Play (24) – equipped Andy & Esme Davies
3. Stokstyf (23) – equipped Andy & Esme Davies
4. Naughty Housewives III (22) – equipped Andy & Esme Davies
5. Loslyf (21) – equipped Andy & Esme Davies

Download the Adultworld Topo NB: this is a 108kb PDF

Bouldering Areas

Road Crew|Bouldering - Road Crew

Bouldering - De Pakhuys

Map

?UNIQ7462d1ae738ab297-googlemap-00000002-QINU A: Cedar Rouge Boulder
B: Wild West Wall
C: Orange Plasma Wall
D: The Sunblock
Z: De Pakhuys Guest Cottage

Photos

More Info

Some of the routes (e.g. Alto Rouge 27 on the Sun Block) have really dodgy bolts. Be careful!

Bolting

Bolting is allowed at Rocklands however a process needs to be followed - failure to comply to these regulations will result in the area being closed. The procedure to bolt in Rocklands can be found here: http://alewis.its.uct.ac.za/mcsa/rock/manplan.html