Route to the right of Trance Dance

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Justin
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Route to the right of Trance Dance

Postby Justin » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:03 am

There is a line of bolts to the right of Trance and Dance. I was wondering who bolted it, what's the grade and why is the 2nd or rather the /3rd bolt placed where it is?
The climbing on the lower half is not great and a bit contrived but the top section nice.
And why weren't the new Raumer (ARF) bolts used?
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Andy Davies
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ARF

Postby Andy Davies » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:23 am

I believe it was equipped by GriGri and if my ailing memory serves me correct he bolted it before ARF arrived but with the correct Hilti/Fisher bolts as opposed to the banned UPAT bolts.
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Brussel
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Postby Brussel » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:59 pm

I agree Justin, the top is great climbing the bottom though is very contrived...my two cents worth
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Justin
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Postby Justin » Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:44 pm

I got to the 2nd bolt, looked right and then just carried on up to the ledge using the Trance Dance bolts. Once at the ledge I got back onto the 'new' route. Quite nice :)
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Grigri
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Postby Grigri » Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:00 am

Pathetic jippo Justin! At the third bolt rail right and climb the grey streaks using only the grey streaks and not the jugs left or huge crack to the right. Contrived? Yep, a bit, its a squeezed route, but pretty stellar if you do it correctly, go again and tackle it head on this time! Pretty tough when placing draws.

Its called 'Kirika' after the child assasin in Noir. Grade 22 although more like 23 if placing draws.

As far as the contrived thing goes; step back and look at the wall, the line is pretty obvious, 'Trance Dance' takes the orange streak, 'Kirika' the grey. I felt the climbing justified squeezing it in. you missed the mono move! Go again! The link up you did ('TranceKi') is also a cool line although much easier.

Re bolts: The thrird bolt is where it is coz thats the only break through the bulge! I challenge you to break straight through! All bolts are 316 Hilti however the first two are not in good rock, they should be glue in. The ARF would not let me place glue-ins coz Im 'not qualified', despite having already successfully placed over a hundred of the things before, so now the start of the route is unsafe! Go figure!!!

PS placing the draws is a real bitch, I wanted them high and in the middle of the hard moves (so you can work them, DUH!), but she's a sweet climb once their in.


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