Legitimate Redpoints

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Fool
Posts: 122
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 11:27 pm
Real Name: Michael Baleta
Location: Kommetjie
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Legitimate Redpoints

Post by Fool » Sun Jun 12, 2005 2:59 pm

I was just wondering how many draws you may have \"pre clipped\" for a red point to be legitimate... From a safety perspective naturally.

On some routes having the first draw clipped is a good idea.... but how often is neccessary to have the first two clipped??? (and if the first two are clipped could you claim the red point)

Would that not be defeating the purpose of leading???

What are you views?

Greg

Post by Greg » Sun Jun 12, 2005 4:08 pm

Good thread re: this on 8aNu, thread=pactice and ethics.
Basically if you go up and clip some bolts and then downclimb to the ground before the send then it may still be regarded (in some circles) as a legit point. If they are preclipped by someone else or with a stick then not. Obviously if its a matter of safety then make an exception and claim the point.

My thinking is that downclimbing is BS as you step off the rock, hey if you touch the ground attempting a boulder problem thats your attempt over! However I also think that how you protect yourself is arbitrary, what matters is doing the moves, but this goes against current trends so I dont expect too many will agree with me there. Its your game make your own rules, unless youre opening cutting edge routes, I doubt anyone will care what style you used, except maybe you! :)

Richard
Posts: 203
Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 7:56 pm

Post by Richard » Sun Jun 12, 2005 8:06 pm

Wasn't this style always known as Yo-Yo, as opposed to redpoint ?

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