Llandudno bouldering

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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The Jimmy
Posts: 217
Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:15 am
Real Name: Niel Mostert

Llandudno bouldering

Postby The Jimmy » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:05 pm

Are there any topo's for bouldering Llandudno (Spelling? :shock: ) or do you just kinda climb what you find? Any specific areas/boulders there that's worth a visit?

Navigation and comments highly appreciated!

DBez
Posts: 183
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:40 pm

Postby DBez » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:19 pm

Uhhmm...no . I reckon its all kinda crap , drop me a note & I can send you a guide that have real bouldering :) .
For a different area...

ATC
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 9:36 am

Postby ATC » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:20 pm

From what I have found at Llandudo the boulder problems either seem to be ridiculously hard or pathetically easy- I did happen to find some interesting problems near Oudekraal by the reserve where one has a nice layback crack and an awesome setting as when the tide is in you can traverse out and the landing is over knee depth water- but better not fall as the landings can be tricky.

Stu
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:38 pm

You guys are obviously not looking properly, there are some nice lines to be found there, a small bunch directly on the beach and the large obvious expanse further on.

marijus
Posts: 47
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:08 pm

Postby marijus » Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:35 pm

we're busy making a guide. don't know when it will be ready but it will be up on www.cutloose.ca.tt

for now, what grade problems are you looking for? i'll try direct you to the best ones. (the main bouldering is on the point on the RHS, facing the ocean)

steveB
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:53 pm

Postby steveB » Tue Feb 06, 2007 12:14 am

Does Zero Gravity top out? I am superimpressed that it has been done. I was always too scared to try it - not wanting to fall in the sea and all...

Did Joe toprope it first?

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The Jimmy
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:15 am
Real Name: Niel Mostert

Postby The Jimmy » Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:53 am

Looking for some slightly harder stuff that you gotta maybe work a bit. Say 7A and harder?

jeanpant
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:05 pm

Postby jeanpant » Tue Feb 06, 2007 12:44 pm

Llandudno has some realy good potential for hard problems. Slabby, high top outs that can be seriously scary. Try bouldering some of the allready establish sport routes. You will be a slab-master in no time! Also plenty potential for more sport lines at Llundudno and surounding areas.

marijus
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:08 pm

Postby marijus » Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:30 am

zero gravity does top out. joe top-roped the top moves, but he sent it without a spotter!

The Jimmy, for some 7As try:

Kulula (7A+) - a technical slab about halfway down the point on the RHS facing the sea, down the hill and to the left from the massive boulder with the angel painting on. There's a photo in the www.cutloose.ca.tt gallery so you can recognise it

Liquid Militia (7A) - on the obvious boulder closest to the beach after you get onto the point, to the right and slightly behind the first slabs. the problem climbs with your back to the sea and is a stand start off a large sloper, then tops out on crimps

Beach Babes (7A+) - on the small boulder above and opposite the 2nd sector of the sport routes (those 3 easy routes). sit start on a sidepull/pocket for the LH and a shallow mono for the RH, climb straight up on small edges

hope that makes sense...

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The Jimmy
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Real Name: Niel Mostert

Postby The Jimmy » Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:40 am

Shot Marijus, thanks for the info! Will try and head that way ASAP!

Guy
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Postby Guy » Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:34 pm

Any real men visiting Llandudno should have a crack at WWF - it is the big crack thru the roof behind the American Dream slab.

When you get to the hard bit, try to remember the Joe opened it without a spotter!

It is still waiting for a 2nd ascent...
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

wasatchgirl
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:16 pm
Real Name: Rachel Strate

Re: Llandudno bouldering

Postby wasatchgirl » Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:36 pm

Marijus,
I am also looking for a guide to Llandudno. Have any topos been drawn yet? Happy to help out, if needed...

JoeMohle
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat May 01, 2010 11:28 am
Real Name: Joe Mohle

Re: Llandudno bouldering

Postby JoeMohle » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:49 pm

wasatchgirl,
I am working on the Llandudno bouldering guide at the moment. It should be done by December. If you would like any info before then, you can email me
jhmohle@gmail.com
Joe

:alien: Click here for the Llandudno Bouldering guide

wasatchgirl
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:16 pm
Real Name: Rachel Strate

Re: Llandudno bouldering

Postby wasatchgirl » Thu Oct 21, 2010 9:38 pm

Ah... super cool. Thanks, Joe!


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