Joining unequal ropes for abseiling

[PeterHS]

What's safe and what's unsafe for joining unequal ropes for abseiling? Peter

[hendriks]

The edk (flat overhand) should be fine for different diameter ropes but if you want to be very safe use a double fishermans. If using the edk, dress it properly to ensure good contact between both ropes throughout the knot.

Another nifty way of joining two unequal diameter ropes would be a sheet bend with the end of the rope tied of in stopper knots (overhand on a bight/fishermans)

The sheet bend only works if under tension and can undo itself when unloaded, hence the need to tie of the ends if using it to join abseil ropes. This knot can potentialy snag as well so take care. This is also a very useful knot to join ropes where you will put a large load on it and need to untie it afterwards.

[SNORT]

European death knot.

[SNORT]

A couple of points that are life saving.

DO NOT make your tails too long. Max 15cm. Do not put additional knots on the European death knot. KISS! Keep it simple stupid.

Was involved in 2 situations on Sunday where I put my rappel device on a too long tail and then the rope twisted around additional knots.

A well dressed simple so called death knot with short tails is safe. Period

European death knot correct.jpg (7.58 KiB) Viewed 1328 times

European death knot correct.jpg (7.58 KiB) Viewed 1328 times

[Old Smelly]

Interesting different viewpoints:

Climbing
http://www.climbing.com/skills/in-defen ... eath-knot/

Rock and Ice
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-gear ... ectType=35

It would appear, Nic, that others can disagree about technical stuff too!

[hendriks]

Interesting different viewpoints:

Climbing
http://www.climbing.com/skills/in-defen ... eath-knot/

Rock and Ice
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-gear ... ectType=35

It would appear, Nic, that others can disagree about technical stuff too!

You are kidding right. The Climbing.com article is spot on about the edk issue. The Rock and Ice on is based on guesswork/myth/BS. We know for a fact that the knot killing people is the flat 8 and not the EDK. Enough pull tests has been done to confirm this. Seriously consider actually understanding the articles you share before putting your foot in it.

[hendriks]

European death knot.

Ja I went for the know many ways to skin a cat method but in the end you are right. KISS.

The simplest solution is the way to go

[hendriks]

Interesting different viewpoints:

Climbing
http://www.climbing.com/skills/in-defen ... eath-knot/

Rock and Ice
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-gear ... ectType=35

It would appear, Nic, that others can disagree about technical stuff too!

You are kidding right. The Climbing.com article is spot on about the edk issue. The Rock and Ice on is based on guesswork/myth/BS. We know for a fact that the knot killing people is the flat 8 and not the EDK. Enough pull tests has been done to confirm this. Seriously consider actually understanding the articles you share before putting your foot in it.

Ag ffs, caught me at a k*k moment. Didn't mean to insult you (insert diplomatic bs here). I see you didn't actually advocate either

[Old Smelly]

How could I possibly be insulted when someone BERATES me for raising the fact that two well respected publications have published viewpoints on the use of the EDK and suggests that I didn't read the articles properly...

seems that even raising different viewpoints is not allowed...

I suspect that there wasn't a satisfactory answer as to how to join different diameter ropes though...neither of the proposed solutions seem optimal (in my viewpoint) - rethread figure 8 or EDK...

Any better ideas...