Newlands Boulder Problem

For the posting and discussion of Access Issues and Closures for Areas around South Africa.
scottnoy
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:29 am

Newlands Boulder Problem

Postby scottnoy » Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:33 am

I'm looking for a boulder problem in the Newlands Forest opened by Adrian Kohler called Leftfield - 8a which was downgraded to 7c/+.
Thanks,
-Scott
scottnoy@yahoo.com

dom
Posts: 188
Joined: Fri May 06, 2005 7:49 am

Re: Newlands Boulder Problem

Postby dom » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:20 am

scottnoy wrote:I'm looking for a boulder problem in the Newlands Forest opened by Adrian Kohler called Leftfield - 8a which was downgraded to 7c/+.
Thanks,
-Scott
scottnoy@yahoo.com


I doubt it will reply here, so I will reply on it's behalf. It's a mission to find and I don't think I could describe how to get there, despite having been there twice.

The problem's also bloody hard, but there's a nice 7Bish problem next to it.

I know that's not much help.
the fresh prince of darkness

scottnoy
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:29 am

Postby scottnoy » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:38 am

As you said, that's not much help?
I know the forest pretty well! Please try your best, maybe via e-mail?!
Thanks for the trouble!
Later,
-Scott

steveB
Posts: 117
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:53 pm

Postby steveB » Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:06 pm

It is difficult to describe how to get to the boulder and I think the intention is to not make its whereabouts too public. Adrian Kohler is the best person to ask for directions.

It is about 20/25 minutes walk from the small road that comes off the M3 before the UCT turn off. You head up past the helicopter pad (if still there) and follow a gravel road that heads leftward for some distance through a large clearing where some paths meet. You continue on this winding road for some distance more before heading up a well made path off the road to the right. at some stage you get onto a barely visible path that leads directly up through some young pines and this path goes fairly near the boulder which you will see the back of a short distance to the left .

This is not a good description and you will get lost - but maybe now you will have an idea of where to look

The boulder is not all that impressive. a short face with about 3 distinct lines up. The 7B problem I think Dom is talking about is on the left of the face and is not that hard (would guess 6c+) and is a nice line but one of the holds is glued (or reinforced). Fun top out. I think you can also finish by traversing right onto the leftfield jug

On the right is Leftfield, which was only named years after its first ascent (originally going by \"Adrian's 8a in Newlands forrest\") This one-move problem is not that difficult once you do it (probably 7C or easier). You grab two small side clings, paste your foot onto a smear on the right and launch for the jug above left and top out. If you fall you end up running down the hill. There is another easier variation going up and right where you snatch for a sidepull- I can't remember much about this one.

On the right arete is a fun easy route up the flakes

Happy hunting....!

scottnoy
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:29 am

Postby scottnoy » Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:28 pm

Thanks a lot for the effort Steve, much appreciated!!


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