Old nuts and friends

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Old nuts and friends

Post by kyle » Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:23 am

For the past few years I have shelved my trad rack and been more of a sport climber boulderer... but then recently I decided I wanted to do some real climbing again! So I pulled out the old gear and ordered it all up and then decided that some of it looked rather old. What is the sort of general age that one would retire trad gear. My rack of friends and camalots is about 8 years old and my rack of nuts (and the odd old hex!) are older by a few years. None of it has seen substantial wear, some of the friends need a bit of a service. Any thoughts?


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Post by Hector » Tue Sep 26, 2006 12:55 pm

The hardware should be fine. Aluminium tends not to wear out! Just inspect the tape on the cams. It'll probably need replacement. Get some spectra cord for this. I've heard that Black Diamond and/or Wild Country will replace tape on cams for a fee, but I'm not sure how much of a mission this is? Maybe ask at Drifters. Clean the cams and oil them a bit. Inspect the cables for any damage. The wires should still be fine and the hexes as well (apart from any tape, which should be replaced)

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Post by Grigri » Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:51 pm

There are a couple of companies in Cape Town who have bar tackers who can sew up slings.
Granite - Aleck Mc Kirdy #0834585410
High Angle - Deon Tromp? (I think) dont have a # 4 him.

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Post by kyle » Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:31 pm

Thanks, thats a great help. Will check that out.


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Post by fanta » Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:47 am

I would avoid using oil on your cams as it will attract and hold dust in between the moving parts causing a nasty looking aluminum paste with frequent use…
Wash your cams in mild soapy water and rinse off extremely well. Let them air dry as is and then get hold of a silicone based lubricant, this does not hold or attract dust as much as an oil… You might find such a lubricant at specialized hardware stores, if have no luck there go into your local s e x shop and tell them u need some lube, not for you, but for your friends… however, expect to pay twice the price; R50 for 200ml or so

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Post by Oldsmelly » Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:56 am

Mmmm Fanta...how did you find out what was good for your friends? :lol:

What do you suggest one uses on your nuts? :wink:
It's not that bad...
I think it's my shoes...

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