NEW Yellowwood Routes

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SNORT
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
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NEW Yellowwood Routes

Postby SNORT » Fri May 30, 2014 2:00 pm

There are now 10 new routes at Yellowwood since the beginning of the year. Most have been posted on the WIKI.

They are as follows starting on the first ridge/rib on the left and the continuing up from left to right:

1. Not The Best Time 19+ **
2. Sublime Time 19+ *****
3. Lekker Time 16 ****
4. Another Fckn Time 20+*****
5. Play Time 19 *****
6. Divine Time 19 *****
7. Time after Time 20+****
8. Good Time ***** 22
9. Tea Time *** 24 (Not a new route)
10. Extra Time 24 and Less Time 22 *****
11. Fine Time 20 ****

The star grading is obviously a little personally biased but relates to the context of the place and the fact that these are adventurous country routes. I have based the star grading on the fact that most of the pitches are as good as anything on TM or the Cederberg. They are interesting and thought provoking and mostly on very steep rock for the grade (so safe). There are no "stopper moves". One or two pitches have some lichen (esp the 4th Pitch of Lekker Time) that does not really affect the climbing quality. All the pitches (with the exception of a short easy section on Extra Time 3rd pitch which is shared with Fine Time) are well protected. None have been "climbed-into-condition" yet so beware of breaking holds.

Fine Time needs to be straightened a little so not on the WIKI yet.

Have fun

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AndrewP
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Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby AndrewP » Fri May 30, 2014 3:54 pm

Nice work Snort. I need to head down South to test them out.

Where though is DOG TIME? You also need Time Of My Life

SNORT
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Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby SNORT » Fri May 30, 2014 4:06 pm

Aaaaaahhhhh Saving those two. Then there is Dogged Time....... Enough Time; Time Out; From time to time, It is Time; and more

As for the time of my life is what I do with my wife.

Ja c'mon down dude. Most are easy enough for you. But there are one or two tricks that might challenge you.

What is amazing is that out of the 60 odd pitches there are only 3 chossy pitches due to lichen but the climbing is still good and only one bit of 3m runout. So much more consistent than just about any other country route that I have done

SNORT
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby SNORT » Thu Nov 19, 2015 2:43 pm

Now what shall we call this new route that Squeaks and I fashioned yesterday. Options:
Dogged Time
It is Time
Time machine
Time of my life
Air Time
ETA
Tick Tock
Cuckoo Clock
Time out.
Fight Time
Matter of Time
Test of Time
Infinite Time
Yellowwood delivers again.

Thanks squeaks for a great day. I feel like someone has gone over my body with a ball peen hammer today.

Almost set myself up for failure by walking up in 58minutes to drip. So by pitch 5 was cramping seriously including arms legs and even abs.

The pitch off the halfway ledge needs a bit of finessing as I tried going one way which is brick hard and then swung into a groove further right off a point. I guess it will be quite staunch at 23ish to free.

Long time since I have felt so fucked and tried so hard as on the second last 22 pitch which is one of the best at Yellowwood. It requires crimps, lie backs, cunning drop knees, knee bars, back steps, stems, a head jamb, a shoulder jamb and pure grunting fight in places to get up it when you are as old and weak as me. Gear was good though!

Squeaks did a fine onsight of the 23/24 previous pitch. I reckon it must be 23 because I don’t think I could have followed it if 24. But gear is good but thin and hard to put out off a sharp crimp so maybe 24 to lead.

This is a full service route at YW and as long and as hard as Prime Time or Fantastic Time especially as the hard pitches are high up and there are 3 of them.

Needs some climbing into condition on the lower pitches.


Test of Time V1.jpg
Test of Time V1.jpg (126.41 KiB) Viewed 1186 times

("Times up" is for the last route I ever open to be renamed posthumously!)

For now I like The Test of Time

mokganjetsi
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Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby mokganjetsi » Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:59 am

Awesome!

On the name - and since you will never relent from the "time" theme :wink: - one to keep in the bag is "Imaginary Time". A very fascinating scientific concept :thumleft:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imaginary_time

SNORT
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Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby SNORT » Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:32 am

Decided to call it The Test of Time....

codger
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Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby codger » Mon Nov 23, 2015 6:54 am

emit time

be nice to go back in time to Yellowwood

SNORT
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Location: Cape Town

Re: NEW YELLOWWOOD ROUTES

Postby SNORT » Mon May 23, 2016 7:11 am

Jimbo Smith did the first true on-sight of Extra Time 24 roof pitch.

We also improved the route by avoiding the grotty recess on the 3rd pitch, sharing the 23 pitch of Fine Time and adding a top pitch on the upper buttress at grade 21. However the route still deserves a final pitch but gale force winds forced us off the route.

This time of the year Yellowwood is at its best and me mostly had excellent conditions except as we got to the top of the 24 pitch when the wind came up.


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