Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
Poppie
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Real Name: Hannelie Morris

Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Poppie » Mon Nov 21, 2011 3:06 pm

We were climbing Long Bolt to Freedom (17 A0) at Swinburne this weekend – a superb 7 pitch sport route to the top of the mountain (thanks Gavin!). On the aid pitch there were three bolts quite close to each other, so you could pull yourself across. But someone has removed the middle hanger. Without the hanger on the bolt, one must either free the pitch at grade 23 or try aid on the bolt stud using a sling that is not exactly secure.

I would love to know who removed the hanger, and what your thinking was. I am seriously concerned about those climbers who can climb 17A0, but not 23. They will read the route description and go for it, and then get stuck at a bolt. What are they to do? Abseil down from one anchor?

smityb
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby smityb » Mon Nov 21, 2011 3:47 pm

this is useful news as i was planning on climbing the route in December. :(

Chris F
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Chris F » Mon Nov 21, 2011 3:56 pm

Poppie wrote:What are they to do?


Can you snag the bolthead with a wired nut? Or carry a hanger and a bolt with you? At least if folk are aware they can prepare?

Chalk
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Real Name: Andrew Blanche
Location: Pretoria / Johannesburg

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Chalk » Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:21 pm

Poppie wrote:I would love to know who removed the hanger, and what your thinking was?


Hmm thats the mistake we always make.. we assume they thought....
if you did not bolt it, dont change it! its not yours!

If i remember - you are not actually "clipping" the bolt but aiding up on it.. sling the bolt stub with a dyneema and pull up on it.. clipping the next one, making sure you clipped the previous bolt... should up the mind game a bit :)

WikiDave
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby WikiDave » Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:00 pm

It must have been removed recently , I climbed long bolt last week Sunday ( 13th) and all the hangers were there.

Poppie
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Poppie » Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:58 pm

We used a sling and it worked fine. And I am sure a wired nut will also work. (But it is still not a mind game I'd like to play if it was my first multi pitch route...)

Now I would love to go back and read to summit book to see who was there between last weekend and this weekend...

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Justin
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Justin » Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:36 am

How about a re-grade of 17(A 0.5) ? :P
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Serioustribe
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Serioustribe » Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:00 pm

Hi Poppie

We removed the hanger . It was loose and hence unsafe, the bolts on that route are so close together at the crux that it didnt seem like a problem to still get through the move.
Unsafe routes are becoming a problem on our local crags .If im there soon will take tools with to fix it again, it is great route !
I Will put the hanger to good use though , plan on replacing those rusty pitons in the Magallies classic routes (specifically Tonquani ) with safe bolts within the next 2 weeks.
They typically get a lot of newbees on .

pierre.joubert
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby pierre.joubert » Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:08 pm

Rob, that's some low grade trolling buddy, even for you.

joshpickering
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby joshpickering » Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:24 pm

Well a finger tight hanger isn't all that unsafe, especially if it's just being used to aid on. Certainly better than hanging on a precariously placed sling... If you're that desperate for some free hangers, perhaps I can help sponsor some for you? Would be great if someone could replace it next time they're up there!

oubaas
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby oubaas » Tue Nov 22, 2011 8:26 pm

Rob i certainly hope you have the required permission to replace existing pitons with bolts in the MCSA owned Magaliesberg kloofs!

SNORT
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby SNORT » Tue Nov 22, 2011 8:52 pm

Permission is not an issue to bolt in the Magaliesberg. It is at present a no-bolt zone. I, we, the members of the MCSA, are the MCSA. Do not bolt the Magalies.

Marshall1
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Marshall1 » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:11 pm

.
Last edited by Marshall1 on Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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emile
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby emile » Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:12 am

8a, st0ne, 9ja, Serioustribe & probably a couple other I don't recall now

SSDD

Boring. PreDICKtable.

Serioustribe
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:31 am

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Serioustribe » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:23 am

It is not entirely a no bolt zone , I do recall seeing bolts on the 25 next to Donkerhoek corner and on the gulley heading down into Tonquani.
In all respect a bolt is the same thing as a piton and we all clip those rusted pitons and rely on them...you wouldnt clip a rusty bolt at a sports crag.
I do realise the 25 has 2 bolts because it has no place for pro at that point....but then it defeats the object of that area being trad only doesnt it?
Other routes like Hawks eye for example are very easy , but the first pitch is low on gear and if someone has to fall it could be nasty. One or 2 bolts would make it safe.

jgb
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Real Name: Jacques Breitenbach

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby jgb » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:59 am

Oh boy here we go again, the magaliesberg kloofs are MCSA property and there is a NO BOLTING policy!!!!!!!!!! The few bolts that are there are not supposed to be there. The pitons were placed many years ago before cams and modern pro, leave them where they are, they are part of climbing history. I have taken beginners up Hawks eye many times, it does not need to be bolted!!! If someone needs a bolt or two for the start they shouldn't be there, (on lead anyway) simple as that.

pierre.joubert
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby pierre.joubert » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:03 am

Hey Rob, you bolted without the permission of the MCSA before, and that didn't work out too well did it?

Back under the bridge troll, and you lot, stop feeding him :thumright

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Justin
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Justin » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:07 am

Mr. Serioustribe,

Would you be so kind as to let us know your true identity (name)?
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

Serioustribe
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Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:31 am

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Serioustribe » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:19 am

Heheeh too sharp Pierre ! :lol:

Sorry guys Just having a little fun to get my week going , there are no plans what so ever to bolt the Magallies :thumleft: I have donated a few nuts on those kloofs though ...does that count ??
Oh and nor did I remove the hanger from Long bolt

pierre.joubert
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby pierre.joubert » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:23 am

You :jocolor:

Dewrance
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Dewrance » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:38 am

jgb wrote:the magaliesberg kloofs are MCSA property and there is a NO BOLTING policy!!!!!!!!!! The few bolts that are there are not supposed to be there

Not entirely true... there are many many kloofs which are not owned by the MCSA and taking into account Fernkloof at Bergheim and Wigwam there are quite a few bolted routes... plus there are some commercial operations which have bolted climbs / abseils which were done legally (i.e. with the land owners permission - some by MCSA mebers :!: )

Lets not be too quick to generalise about the whole Magaliesberg... :thumright

jgb wrote: it does not need to be bolted!!!

agreed :cyclops:
Last edited by Dewrance on Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

jgb
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby jgb » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:39 am

Damn!! There I thought we were going to have anouther 'bush' type episode. Its so boring when everyone follows the rules. :cyclops:

jgb
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby jgb » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:43 am

Derance wrote: lets not generalise about the magaliesberg.
Point taken

Dewrance
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Dewrance » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:46 am

Perhaps you could start one.... :pirat: (a 'bush' episode that is...)

Put up some via ferrata through Tonquani... just to be safe and make it accessible to the underprivileged.. :lol:

Serioustribe
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Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:31 am

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Serioustribe » Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:01 am

Great idea dewrance :thumleft:
Dont forget to litter in Tonquani too, it creates jobs for the underprivileged

jgb
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby jgb » Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:30 am

Maybe a via verrata to a chiped out ledge with a good view of the nesting black eagles?

mistersisco
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Real Name: zisterer ralf

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby mistersisco » Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:10 pm

:cry: Hi Climbed this route 3 months ago, remeber this bolt was loose not only the nut the whole bolt was shaky.

Edit from Admin: mistersisco, I lightened up your picture (it was a bit dark before).
Attachments
bolt-on-long-way-2-freedom_.jpg
bolt which was loose
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Franz
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby Franz » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:22 am

Serioustribe,
may I suggest you get a real name in addition to your non de plume so that your audience can get to know who we are talking to. :puker:
This is a small family, and most guys here know each other in some way or another, and if not, are soon to...

I really want to pick a fight with you right now, but choose not to degrade myself to your level of immaturity. Judged by the attention illegal bolting has received (incl lots of emotion, threatened legal suits, etc,etc) I dont think its something to joke about, and in such a way. The original post was honest, concerned, and serious.

grow up :jocolor:

Justin, please remove this guy's post before someone again reads half the post and blows all out of proportion :roll:

FuzzyMuzzy
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:38 pm

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby FuzzyMuzzy » Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:48 pm

Hi all,

I know this is an old thred but I was wondering if anyone knew the conidition of the bolts on this route as I'm planning to give it a go this weekend

thanks

joshpickering
Posts: 101
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Real Name: Josh Pickering

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Postby joshpickering » Thu Apr 24, 2014 7:37 am

The route is fine.


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