Yellowwood Update

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
SNORT
Posts: 947
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Yellowwood Update

Postby SNORT » Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:25 am

Yellowwood has 7 New multipitch routes developed this year and more to come. They are all good quality and range from grade 16 to 24. All the routes are typical steep Yellowwood climbing but none have sketchy gear. One or two need to be "finessed" by straightening the lines.

Only 2 of the routes have cranky "hard" pitches. Extra Time has a superb 22 face into dihedral pitch followed by a tricky overhang 24. However, the gear is placed from a stable position, is excellent and either above you or at your waist.

Good Time has a very short 22 pitch with gear easily placed and at your waist as you do the move - so not scary at all. The rest of the route is 18/19.

The water situation has also been sorted out with large collection buckets placed at the drip and also another one will be at the base of the Tea Time buttress soon.

Watch the WIKI for details....

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: Yellowwood Update

Postby Brussel » Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:31 am

well done snort!
now hurry up and get the stuff on wiki :thumleft:

Willem
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:11 pm
Location: Cape Town

Re: Yellowwood Update

Postby Willem » Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:16 pm

Well done on all the new routes, it makes climbing at this fantastic venue accessible to more people. Have only done one of the new routes and look forward to trying the rest.

For those expecting these new routes to be a walk-in-the-park, be warned. Low grades can be deceiving. Even at its tamest, Yellow Wood climbing is committing. I remember feeling particularly insecure on the final moves of Extra Time's grade 22 dihedral. Terrible feet, long way to the next hold and the last decent gear well below me.

Not sure if I would have hit anything had I came off, but the possibility certainly crossed my mind. Although, now that I am writing about it, I seem to recall a dodgy piece higher up. Whatever, it is not completely straight forward. The 24 pitch (21 for people taller than 1.6m) is super safe - overhanging with bomber gear.

SNORT
Posts: 947
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Yellowwood Update

Postby SNORT » Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:57 pm

Indeed YW is "real adventure climbing" but both Willem and Squeaks stemmed the dihedral on Extra Time - I think because lay-backing is not intuitive climbing on sandstone. I find it straightforward lay-backing and there is good gear higher up if you care to put it out. Medium sized cams etc.

The 3rd pitch on Play Time finds you below a large intimidating jammed flake. It is about grade 20 to climb over it and you have to be quite tall. The easy but not obvious way to climb past it is to do a standard lay-back move and then it is 18!. I have tested the flake and although one can never guarantee the rock, it seems stable. When I do it again i shall follow the pitch and really make sure it is jammed tight by jumping on it.

It is in any case safer lay-backing it than pulling down and out on it.

Divine Time also has a lay-back move on the second last pitch as a few metres above the stance. Much easier if you do it that way.


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