Climbing Deal Breakers

[Warren G]

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/cl ... l-breakers

I am sure I am very slow to find this one, but I couldn't resist pulling it down to our level, and I feel the need to defend some of my own Deal Breakers (Chirps welcome, but be willing for some returned):

RSA Deal Breakers:
Wearing a leather hat to the crag, or even climbing with it. I like my hat, but they are absurd.
* Hammock at the crag (there needs to be a thread of creative hammock uses while climbing)
* Music at the crag
* "Awe"
* Down jackets at 15 C
* Climbing in long sleeved button up shirts.
* Boiling water rather than bringing a flask for tea.
* Buffs (I use them to keep hair out of face, otherwise...?)
* Trad gear at the gym, esp prussiks: Its sort of like peacocking.
* "Take" on a redpoint burn
* "That beta is cheating!" Keep your climbing ethics to yourself and let the guy send how he chooses.

I detest climbing with a pack 30L or more because it gets in the way, is heavy and I can't chalk up, so when multipitching I carry a 20L pack, put the rack in a small drawstring bag outside, wear my harness and helmet and Fivefingers. Shirt, lunch and warm stuff in the bag. Do I look and feel like a muppet when walking in? Yes, but much nicer to climb this way. And yes, there is one prussik in all of that which doubles as a handle for my nut tool, thanks for asking Cuan.

[Old Smelly]

2 things;

1. I know a very strong climber who wears a button up collared shirt because otherwise he gets horribly sunburnt. No one would ever call him out on this, but he is a nice guy so he would probably make a joke about it.

2. Just because I know I must have my prussiks on my harness at all times I would say that that peacocking thing is BS. Ironically this is something experienced climbers do & does not even vaguely compare to all the posing done by the "gym boys" whose domain is plastic & when out on the rock talk about French grades in S.A. - that is the ultimate in "Poseur"!

Love the one about wearing a beanie, no shirt and mankini's (especially if you have a pierced nipple) - sounds so Capetonian!

[Nic Le Maitre]

Have to agree with Old Smelly here, the prussiks stay on the harness at all times so that I can never forget them because when you need to use prussiks, you really NEED them.

[Thermophage]

You forgot smoking at the crag (or anywhere for that matter) Warren...
And individually naming your draws

[ScottS]

• Screams like Sharma or Ondra, but isn't Sharma or Ondra
• Can't send without using liquid chalk
• Can't send without spit polishing rock shoes
• Obsesses over crag diet
• Truly believes his/her/it's beta is always the easiest way
• Frequently fails to observe rule number one (Don't f&%$ it up!)
• Boasts about being "featured" in the route guide

[brianweaver]

Ha, I saw Paul post this on Facebook today and chuckled fully.

I'm definitely guilty of a few of these:

Updates Facebook or 8a.nu scorecard on smartphone while at the crag -- I like my smartphone, Facebook...
Stick clips. I own one and use it from time to time, there is some logic in it particularly when you could get hurt.
Fist bumps. It happens
Gives beta on a route he hasn’t done. I remember all beta

LOL

[Warren G]

I have a trad/multipitch harness and a sport harness, which negates the prussik issue (but that lives on my nut key, or is my draw bandolier)

Smoking is a non-climbing deal breaker for me, so I excluded it.

Great call on the French grades- Forgot that one.

Blogging about training- sorry Brian.

Warming up on someones project, double if its while wearing slops/approach shoes. I am dead guilty of this by the way

[mikej]

Here's a dealbreaker: giving a shit about how some turd in Rock and Ice thinks you should live your life.

[ScottS]

Taking CDB seriously enough to post in this thread ;P

[lelikegogga]

Haha, cool post!

Is it bad that I suffer from most of these? (@Brian, guilty is such a strong word)
And find others to be great suggestions:
"Warming up on someone's project ... while wearing slops" - I'll be wearing crocs!
"Trad gear at the gym" - I'll bring my big ass nr4 cam. Who notice prussiks?
"And individually naming your draws" - I'm def doing that.. and naming my cams too! I know I'm gonna start making name tags.

Just saying, I never agreed to any deal!

[Old Smelly]

How about farting when making the big moves...

[Thermophage]

Farting is OK...we all need to do it...
Just don't fart on your belayers neck while he's helping you reach draw #1 from the ground...I've been on the receiving end of that one before....Mr N T!!

[Deon]

I had the pleasure of belaying a guy who's sweat dripped on me.... That is uncool

[Baldrick]

Farting is ok, but sharting is another issue altogether!!

[PaulB]

Damn it Scott, now I'm even more guilty: very addicted to liquid chalk. Anyway, my beta is always the best...

[DavidWade]

"Warming up on someone's project ... while wearing slops" - I'll be wearing crocs!

Or soloing someones project

[The Jimmy]

ScottS hates boulderers...

[lelikegogga]

Or soloing someones project

Haha, the closest I get to soloing is in my dreams.. and normally those are nightmares where I'm 3/4 up a route, looking down to realize I have no belayer. The rope running through all the gear, but the other end just piled up on the ground.
To make me feel better I sometimes claim those sends on 8A, I mean 8a

[Old Smelly]

Ha ha even in the states some people take themselves too seriously!

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tn ... al-breaker

I wonder if they use French Grades!

2B or not 2b, that is the question!