slippery rope ???

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Gregory
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Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:39 am
Real Name: Greg Dobbins

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby Gregory » Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:11 am

mikej wrote:Some routes are bolted in such a way that high clipping is expected/mandatory.


Sort of my point that beta on belaying some routes could prove valuable. Climber communication with belayer and not just slack but slack and clipping overhead, Belayer being prepared.

mikej wrote: we shouldn't argue that losing control of the belay is okay.


Hope none of the comments here came across this way.

joshpickering
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Joined: Fri May 07, 2010 10:37 am
Real Name: Josh Pickering

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby joshpickering » Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:14 am

Of course there are times when you will clip above your head, but if you are clipping because you are nervous of doing one more move above the last bolt, then it is a problem. If you clip at arms length above your head, it amounts to almost 2m of slack, which means an extra 4m fall plus stretch and the fact that your belayer is paying out slack and is more likely not to be ready for a fall. So it could easily mean a 6m+ fall.... you could deck from the 4th bolt very easily. If you do one extra move and clip at your waist, even falling at the second bolt should be safe for most routes. Just saying, guys need to understand the dangers of clipping high.
As I said earlier, the belayer cannot be excused for dropping the climber (not that I have all the facts, but from what I've heard), but I'm sure he's learned a lesson.

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Turtle
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Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:20 pm
Real Name: Jacques Redelinghuys

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby Turtle » Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:05 pm

If clipping above your head is 'expected/mandatory', its a badly bolted route. It happens tho...bad bolting I mean.

Gyms are are actually potentially very dangerous, because the walls might feel high, but compared to most outdoor venues, its actually a very short fall to the ground - as in you might end up on the floor sooner than expected...

As for all lead climbing, higher is better for many reasons like: there's more rope that can absorb your fall, the higher you get, the more unlikely it gets for you to hit the ground(assuming you are clipping pro regularly), and yet it feels more dangerous. Funny how our minds work. Its those short, tight little falls that actually shocks the system(rope, anchors, your spine, belayer).

Hence the term: brave clipping - better to clip at waist to shoulder level than pealing off slack and clenching it in the teef... enter potential passion-gap...

If you're afraid to fall, try this once: lead a route, and fall off after every qd clipped - you might lose your fear of falling by the end of the route. And it might also decrease the belayer's fears of being able to catch your fat butt...(thinking of my own here, no offense...).

:thumright

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Murdakah
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Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:45 pm
Location: Pretoria, SA, Earth, Orion-Cygnus Arm, Milky Way

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby Murdakah » Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:51 pm

Uhm...Autolock anyone?

Nic Le Maitre
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:20 pm

Murdakah wrote:Uhm...Autolock anyone?


Most belaying accidents actually happen with Grigris and similar devices because of the complacency that they create because they are "autolocking". In fact I can't think of another belaying accident that happened with a bug/ATC etc
Happy climbing
Nic

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justfly
Posts: 46
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 7:32 pm
Real Name: chris m-w

Re: slippery rope ???

Postby justfly » Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:11 pm

4 me = sport = autolock = trongo cinch
trad = reverso

The same way one learns how to drive a car safely , one must learn how to drive an autolock belay or bug safely , if you drive like an idiot you're going to have an accident :shock:
I find the cinch more responsive than the gri gri , but needs a bit of finesse to drive smoothly
( still no licence for an eddy or tre` , so can't comment on them )

I like my reverso 4 for trad , one has standard mode or guide mode ( I also use it for self belay ,but don't tell my mom :) )

If a climber decks , the climber or belayer were not paying attention :cry: :eye: :oops:

drive safely dudes and pay attention :thumleft:

Xris
who needs big jugs when you've got a tight crack


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