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Author	Message
Justin	Post subject: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:19 pm
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am Posts: 3117 Location: Montagu Real Name: Justin Lawson	FYI Don't place bolts near or next to cracks (even small ones). Attachments: crack_from_bolt.jpg [ 247.8 KiB | Viewed 1203 times ] _________________ Climb ZA - Administrator justin@climbing.co.za
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pierre.joubert	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:46 pm
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm Posts: 726	Or use electroplated mild steel bolts for that matter
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Xenomorph	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 11:08 pm
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am Posts: 259 Location: Cape Town Real Name: Cormac Tooze	5” (127mm) from old bolt 6” (153mm) from fracture 200mm away from an edge Rap anchors/ Lower-off's: 200-300mm apart,
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Justin	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 11:11 pm
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am Posts: 3117 Location: Montagu Real Name: Justin Lawson	Thanks Cormac. Was just going to comment that the crack could have been caused whilst drilling or whilst hammering the bolt into place. Pierre: Why do you think a softer/different bolt would make a difference? _________________ Climb ZA - Administrator justin@climbing.co.za
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emile	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:39 am
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:41 am Posts: 722 Real Name: OneDog	I think he was continuing on the "Don't......"
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pierre.joubert	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:27 am
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm Posts: 726	I mean Also, don't use electroplated mild steel bolts for that matter
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BAbycoat	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:43 am
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm Posts: 150	Xenomorph wrote: 5” (127mm) from old bolt 6” (153mm) from fracture 200mm away from an edge Rap anchors/ Lower-off's: 200-300mm apart, Are these specs for expansion bolts only, or glue-ins too? I have a nearby (non-RSA) route with lower-offs of dubious quality slap-bang in the middle of the only decent placements. Struggling to figure out how to re-bolt with good glue-ins without going too close to edges, fractures or existing expansion bolts.
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Justin	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:05 am
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am Posts: 3117 Location: Montagu Real Name: Justin Lawson	emile wrote: I think he was continuing on the "Don't......" Got it. _________________ Climb ZA - Administrator justin@climbing.co.za
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Chris F	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:41 pm
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm Posts: 612 Location: Aberdeen, Scotland	Justin wrote: Was just going to comment that the crack could have been caused whilst drilling or whilst hammering Smaller ones maybe but the main crack (running diagonally on the left) looks like it was there for a while. How old is the bolt?
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Justin	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:51 pm
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am Posts: 3117 Location: Montagu Real Name: Justin Lawson	For sure, the main crack running down left has been there for a long time. The bolt was placed in 2002. _________________ Climb ZA - Administrator justin@climbing.co.za
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Andy Davies	Post subject: Re: Don't place bolts near cracks Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 1:26 pm
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm Posts: 312	Rule of thumb based on the Fischer handbook is bolt >1.5x anchor depth away from edges and cracks. When rebolting routes we are often constrained with old bolts, so usually try and keep it >1.0x anchor depth away from old bolts. _________________ AndyDavies
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