Don't place bolts near cracks

[Justin]

FYI

Don't place bolts near or next to cracks (even small ones).

[pierre.joubert]

Or use electroplated mild steel bolts for that matter

[Xenomorph]

5” (127mm) from old bolt
6” (153mm) from fracture
200mm away from an edge
Rap anchors/ Lower-off's: 200-300mm apart,

[Justin]

Thanks Cormac.
Was just going to comment that the crack could have been caused whilst drilling or whilst hammering the bolt into place.

Pierre: Why do you think a softer/different bolt would make a difference?

[emile]

I think he was continuing on the "Don't......"

[pierre.joubert]

I mean
Also, don't use electroplated mild steel bolts for that matter

[BAbycoat]

5” (127mm) from old bolt
6” (153mm) from fracture
200mm away from an edge
Rap anchors/ Lower-off's: 200-300mm apart,

Are these specs for expansion bolts only, or glue-ins too?

I have a nearby (non-RSA) route with lower-offs of dubious quality slap-bang in the middle of the only decent placements. Struggling to figure out how to re-bolt with good glue-ins without going too close to edges, fractures or existing expansion bolts.

[Justin]

I think he was continuing on the "Don't......"

Got it.

[Chris F]

Was just going to comment that the crack could have been caused whilst drilling or whilst hammering

Smaller ones maybe but the main crack (running diagonally on the left) looks like it was there for a while. How old is the bolt?

[Justin]

For sure, the main crack running down left has been there for a long time.
The bolt was placed in 2002.

[Andy Davies]

Rule of thumb based on the Fischer handbook is bolt >1.5x anchor depth away from edges and cracks. When rebolting routes we are often constrained with old bolts, so usually try and keep it >1.0x anchor depth away from old bolts.