Morgan Bay/Att Derek

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Morgan Bay/Att Derek

Post by Ronnie » Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:42 pm

Hi I have printed out the 65 page RD for Morgan Bay
There is talk of only be two bolted routes. Has this changed?
And does anyone know what condition these bolts are in?
There was also talk of placing bolts at the top of the crags.
Did that ever get off the ground?
I will be in Morgan Bay/Kei Mouth for two weeks in December
and would like to get some climbing done any info would be great.
Derek it seems you were very involved in opening a lot of these
routes any info you could provide would be great. Any info can be
sent to

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Post by Marshall » Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:17 pm

Hi Ronnie

There are only 8 sport routes at Morgans & some that take removable bolts. They are scattered over 3 of the headlands. Easiest is 19; hardest is about 26...a project for whoever is up for it. Some of the bolts must be a bit dodge by now. Rust is a serious problem. All my sport routes at MB will be chopped in the next few years. Morgans is more of a trad venue. There are about 550 routes recorded & about 40max that we still plan too do.

There are 2 more sport lines at Lalapanzi, which is on the way to Morgans.

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Post by Hector » Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:26 pm

I've just got back from a week at Morgan Bay. What an awesome venue! Big up's to Gavin Peckham and Derek for a super-easy-to-use route guide for what would otherwise be a very confusing venue. Ronnie, if you have the route guide, especially the detailed maps of the various headlands, you can't go wrong. I agree with Derek that bolts are out of place. E.g. at the top of Ticket to Ride?! There are such stonking cracks all over the place. Must-do routes are Ticket to Ride (17), One Step From Earth (17), Fiddler's Green (18) and The Carnival is Over (18) (I saw many other awesome looking lines in the higher grades, but lacked a rope to give them a try!). There are more inspiring pure rock climbing venues, but for an all-around experience (especially for a Vaalie who never goes to the beach), Morgan Bay is great. In the middle of winter we swam 7 days out of 8, went horse riding, and got loads of climbing mileage. The jams on the easier routes are super solid, and the rock trustworthy enough for easy, predictable soloing, so even with no other climbers its a great place.

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Post by AndrewP » Sun Jul 02, 2006 8:00 pm

I have to agree with Hector's comment about the RD. It is spot on, so well done to Gavin and Derek for putting it together. I have just come back from my first trip to Morgan's Bay and found each route first time! As a hint, if you climb at the crags with lots of multi star climbs, it will be exposed and the waves crashing below will certainly impress.

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