Climb ZA

Just how easy is it to create a factor three fall? When you only fall 1.5m? And you generate enough force to break your karabiners? The answer is easier than you think!!!

http://www.uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Safe ... kdraws.pdf

fanta

thanks for that Justin...

As a matter of interest... (only because nobody has posted any replies) has this post made a difference in the way you people look at, and use your gear

I'd be a bit if it hasn't ....

Please someone edumacate me. For what I have understood fall factor is calculated like so:

Fall Factor=Length of Fall/Length of Rope Out

Which mean the largest fall factor that could be generated is a Fall Factor 2. In this case subtract the carabiners and there justification seem correct, but by their justification they also get rid of the slings since they are not rope and they are static.

Fall Factor is not suppose to equate to force, which they seem to be doing in the article. To me the scenario that they ilustrate is still a fall factor 2, but obviously since they are using static equipment the force generated by such a small fall is extremely high.

Hope this doesn't confuse the issue further

Petzl.com Fall Simulator
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportConseils?Conseil=56

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Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

Hey Ken4ord... I understand your point that a “fall factor” does not equate to “impact force”... but i do think that if you look at the equation the “distance of the fall”… well that’s obvious… but the term “amount of rope out” can also be substituted with the term “amount of energy absorbing material” in the system… slings, static rope and most fabric materials absorb energy; even if just a little where as a karabiner does not absorb any energy at all.
But once these fabric materials have been subjected to high stress or force they take a while to return their original “relaxed” state… That is why the impact force is so high on the second fall