Bolt status at Lakeside Pinnacle

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Bolt status at Lakeside Pinnacle

Post by Richard » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:00 am

A few months ago we ventured off to Lakeside Pinnacle, but many of the bolts have been chopped for some reason. Does anyone know the current status of the crag?


Post by E » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:01 am

As far as i know some psycho trad guy chopped the top and bottom bolts on all of the routes. aparantely he is a \"trad local\" at the Muizenberg Crag area who totally disapproves of any form of bolting and he wanted to keep his part of the mountain in \"pristeen\" condition. thats all i know.


Post by Gareth » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:01 am

Sadly, Lakeside is a crag in crisis. Conflicting ethics, hidious abuse and short-sightedness on the part of some pchyco-lunatic have led to this crag being chopped, hacked, re-bolted, sabotaged, littered, shat under and scribbled on. It used to be a really beautiful place, but now the vibes there are so bad I don't know why anyone bothers to go there.


Post by Brent » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:02 am

Many of you who have climbed at Lakeside pinnacle in the past will be aware that over the years, vandals have been waging a battle to destroy the routes there, often causing much damage to the rock as well as the bolts and hangers. This is hazardous to the safety of climbers, making whoever is doing this criminally potentially liable for any injuries incurred as a result of their destruction. From time to time, someone comes along and re-equips the crag, which is then vandalised again. Charles Howell, and the climbers of SACS Junior, have recently not only re-bolted most of the existing routes, but have added another three on the right of the wall, which were formerly only toprope lines (from left to right: Asterix 15, Getafix 16, Obelix 16). Permission for this bolting was first requested from the Sport Climbing Working Group, a procedure that has been in place since the TM National Park signed the Management Plan for sport climbing in the Park some years ago. This arrangement is being administered by the Working Group, through the MCSA, for the benefit of all people who climb in the Cape. Anyone who wishes to bolt must please follow this protocol, if in doubt, contact the MCSA for the names of the people to whom you should speak. We can only hope that the Lakeside Pinnacle crag remains unmolested, as it's an exellent beginner's venue, with some great lines that are accessible with only a short walk-in. Climbers are asked to be vigilant when climbing there, and take note of any suspicious-looking people who may be loitering in the area. Remember, damage to a crag is an offence punishable by law; the Park views this sort of thing in a very serious light. Along that line, it has been noticed that somebody has written the names of some of the routes (and grade) on the rock below the first bolts. Not only should this practice be discouraged (this is NOT France!) but it is strictly forbidden. In addition, in at least one case the name and grade of the route was incorrect! Many thanks to Charles and the SACS boys for putting in the exellent work. I must just mention that Dave Hart helped with this refurbishment. Thanks guys.


Post by Jeff » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:02 am

Charles, saw you have re-bolted some routes at the quarry as well. Thanks for all the effort, both are excellent crags to take new climbers, hope to one day run into you at the crag to thank you in person . Good job.

Charles Howell

Post by Charles Howell » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:03 am

I would like to canvass opinion about bolting the Lakeside “Crack of Dawn”. I have mixed feelings about this and cannot make up my mind. On the one hand, it has always been climbed as a trad route. On the other hand, does it make sense to have a ten metre high trad route on a sport crag? What do other climbers think? Should it be bolted or left alone?


Post by jeff » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:03 am

My feeling is that the area is mainly a sport crag for entry level climbers, so bolting the Crack will add another route to the list. Its not as if it is a 'classic' which you are ruining, and to be honest I've never seen anyone climb it, mainly because the climbers at the crag are beginners and getting trad gear out is a mission for them. Having said all of this, I have never climbed the route, and it may well be done regularly?? I guess the ethical call would be to speak to whoever 'discovered' the crag??


Post by Q20 » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:03 am

Ahh, the ongoing bolting issue. Given that this is a sensitive issue, I would certainly leave the route alone. However it is as you said a crag for beginners and the more routes the better. So why not put some anchors at the top so new clibers can top rope it, and it retains its condition for tradding. Even so, best find the person who opened the route/area for their input. Shot for re-bolting the existing routes, hopefully they stay untouched now.


Post by Gaz » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:04 am

Heya Guys, shot and a big thanks to charles for rebolting. I take alot of scouts and friends climbing. so its refreshing to have somewhere new to climb, lakeside has a stunning view. See you on the rock charles. G


Post by Stu » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:04 am

Must just thank Charles for the excellent work. The crag is alot better than I thought.

Charles Howell

Post by Charles Howell » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:04 am

Thanks for the positive feedback, but I must mention that the retrobolting wasn't done by me alone. Dave Hart played a big role. As I had never bolted nbefore, I couldn't have done it alone. There are 5 new lines: Moaning Minnie (17ish) left of the Crack of Dawn Dogmatix (16) Diagonal traverse next to \"Who Knows\" Asterix (14), Obelix (16) and Getafix (17) on the right of the Pinnacle. Charles Howell


Post by gareth » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:04 am

I agree that 'Crack of Dawn' needs top anchors, but I would suggest that, as a beginners' venue, that crack provides an ideal beginner's trad lead. It's just so perfect for tradding, it seems a pity to bolt it. Beginners could always toprope it before leading as well. Lastly, thanks aain to those involved in rescueing this cool little crag.


Post by Stu » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:05 am

I strongly agree, leave the trad line alone. It's a great feature and would be sad to put a line of bolts up the middle. Some people actually like to climb trad. Let people experience the variety instead of assuming we all just climb sport.


Post by Etienne » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:05 am

Appologies for joining the debate so late. Well done Charles & Greg. Crack of dawn in a frequently used by Cape Town School of Mountaineering climb for begginer trad courses and the odd assessment. Many of the climbs are great for teaching trad alongside the bolts.

Douglas Ward

Post by Douglas Ward » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:06 am

When we (UCTMSC) first retrobolted a few lines at Lakeside (the Undercling Route and one or two routes to the left of the pillar - I forget now, that was in 1992) we deliberately left out Crack of Dawn for exactly the reasons given above: it's an excellent beginners' trad lead. Times have changed a bit since then, but not that much - if people still use this route to train trad-beginners, then just put bolt-anchors at the top, so that everybody is happy.


Post by grigri » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:06 am

I must voice my strongest possible objections to any suggestion of bolting such a perfect crack. This idea should not even enter your heads!!!! There are to many bolted lines in the Cape Town area that should have been left as either trad or toprope problems already. A noteable example being Wards Walkup at Peers cave. Give it a rest guys there are lank other worthwhile lines that could be bolted without obliterating every last trace of our trad forefathers. May I suggest that you all start saving for that trad rack and wean yourselves off your bolt addiction!


Post by Brent » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:06 am

Ok, i'd say that consensus is that Crack of Dawn is left alone. It has some nice pro placements at the top, so doesn't even need bolted anchors. It's great like it is. Even if it's just nostalgia... i took my first trad lead fall on that little line... sigh...

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