Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh

[vander]

Stood below "Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh" on Sunday with the intention of climbing it, but then opted for "Last Laugh" at the apparent lack of protection on Don't Squeeze. It looks like a really nice line. Are there gear placements that only become visible once on the route, or do I just need to grow some balls?

[sybaard]

Dont squeeze is a super route, have done it a number of times.
There is plenty of gear higher up. Had the exact same thought when looking up at it the first time.
Enjoy

[mokganjetsi]

hi sybaard,
we had a good look at the first pitch and could not spot any proper pro for the first 6 - 8m, which includes a desperate looking move to pull into the arete around 2m up. looked like a good opportunity to break a bone or tweak an ankle.
any secret pro on the first 5/6m? or is it as vander said a case of having big cahunas or a crash pad?

[sybaard]

Snap! Sorry, forgot to mention i never did the proper ground up start on the arete. Opted for the easier approach to the right moving onto the arete after a few moves. Apparently there is a tricky nut placement after a few moves if doing the proper start. We thought of playing on it on toprope first then go for the send but got lazy.
The rest of the climbing is stellar with good gear.
I have yet to go do Last Laugh, looks rad.
Awe

[vander]

Thanks for the info Sybaard! Will just have to suck it up for the start. Anyway, Mok is a big guy, I'm sure he can catch me

[SNORT]

If you are short the move of the ground is tricky and requires a crank to a rounded finger hold with your left hand. Then I toe hook on the right and reach better holds and then there is a bomber Rock1 placement. If you are taller you can crank to a very positive crimp with your left hand about 5 cm higher. You can see it from the ground.

[vander]

Thanks Snort! Glad to hear it's bomber. We could see a (the only) diagonal crack on the left of the arete, but were doubtful about the "bomber-ness" of the placement Glad to hear we were wrong

[SNORT]

You get to the first largish flat hold - white -and you are standing on small holds. The rock 1 slides in behind this flat hold and sort of from left to right. It is not in the vertical crack. You cannot see the placement from the ground.

[vander]

Aha! Ok cool. Thanks!

[mokganjetsi]

mystery solved!