Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

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Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby atattat » Thu May 03, 2012 10:46 am

I was trying an overhanging boulder problem and pulling (mostly with my middle and ring finger) on a weird gaston-like/sideways crimp sicklemoon shaped hold. I felt a sudden very sharp pain shooting from my middle and ring fingers up my forearm. I immediately stopped climbing, and iced my hand.
I plan on resting a couple of weeks, but am not sure of the severity of the injury or if there is anything else I can do to speed up the recovery process? (I have a 5-month climbing trip planned...starting in July!)

I feel pain when straightening my fingers, I cant make a fist, and it hurts if I press my hand, particularly where those fingers join the palm. Very basic everyday actions also hurt, especially where the fingers are pulled sideways.

Any help/advice would be appreciated!

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby DavidWade » Thu May 03, 2012 11:11 am

Go and see a physio ASAP to get a proper diagnosis as well as how long to rest for and what to do to help recovery.
http://www.climbinginjuries.com/ has good tips and advice, but still go see a physio.

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby proze » Thu May 03, 2012 11:21 am

Noooo! When was this?! Let's hope for the best. Give Mark Seuring a call asap, www.sparc.co.za, 021 425 2298.

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby Not » Thu May 03, 2012 11:38 am

Sounds to me like you have damaged pulleys or your DIP. I tore my DIP last year and was grounded for 6 months.

Proper diagnosis and treatment is key if the injury is bad. If you think it is go to the surgeon and have an ultrasound done.

I went to the Cape Hand Clinic. Dr Mike Solomons is super good and is the hand surgeon for the national cricket and rugby teams (cricketers are constantly breaking fingers). On the same premesis there is a specialist physio and OT team.

Best of luck on your recovery.
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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby atattat » Thu May 03, 2012 12:18 pm

thanks everyone, physio appointment on the way.... :)

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby Justin » Thu May 03, 2012 12:32 pm

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby nak1 » Thu May 03, 2012 3:13 pm

I had the exact same thing happen to me, left hand, middle and ring finger. Pain shot through from my knuckle to my elbow... Fingers hurt when doing things like closing my car door... Was worried that I was going to be out for quite a while. But was back on the rock within a week. But I should also note that now, quite a few weeks later, I still can't do straight finger hangs with those two fingers, only crimping... But it's definitely getting better despite continuous, but careful, climbing. Hopefully you're as lucky as me!

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Re: Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Postby Franz » Fri May 04, 2012 9:19 am

I had a similar experience. Nasty.

My MD told me that regardless the diagnosis, the prognosis is the same (except if something is torn, in which case you will know soon enough):

The solution I was confronted with:
i. rest it for 9 (NINE) months for full recovery (except if something is torn)
ii. Risk permenantly weakening the injured fingers.
iii. big thing to avoid is tendonitis (inflammation of the tendons) which together with continued use makes the injury 'not go away' for years.

That being said:
I took a 1month rest, then initially taped heavily, climbed lightly, avoiding the injured fingers - choosing huge holds that you can cup rather than crimp for the injured hand. I literrally combed with the palm of my hand rather than the fingers.
As the fingers started recovering I gradually used less tape and applying the fingers more. (remember, continuous excessive taping weakens your tendons)
Took about 9 months to get good use of the fingers again.

Its been almost 2 years now, and and my ring finger pully is still a bit more 'bumpy' than the others, and sometimes I experience mild discomfort.

Good luck with the recovery!

Note: this is only my personal experience, and may resemble a huge brainfart. I am not in the medical profession. I suggest you go see a specialist.

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