To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

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Justin
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To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Justin » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:13 am

I need some opinions please.

I have tradded a new route at the Steeple (upper right hand side of the crag). It's about grade 15, eat's gear (plenty of easy placements all over!) and has two bolts for top anchors (if you happen to climb the route, please leave the two biners at the top in place!).

Should I bolt this route or leave it as trad?
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Bolt or Trad? At the Steeple
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Stu
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Stu » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:24 am

Bolt it man, you can never ever have enough bolts!!




Just kidding...

shorti
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby shorti » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:31 am

If it has so many easy placements, then it would just be a waste of bolts. It will also be a great route to teach people to place gear. It looks nice and straight too.

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SuperM
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby SuperM » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:31 am

TRAD ALL THE WAY!!!!

:afro:
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emile
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby emile » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:42 am

I'm with the trad option as well, perhaps just mark the start so that it's clear to see? If it's clearly marked the next oak with a drill will also not have the excuse that he did not know that it was an existing route.

shorti
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby shorti » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:52 am

emile wrote: perhaps just mark the start so that it's clear to see?
He did, can't you see that big yellow blob? :mrgreen:

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emile
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby emile » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:56 am

<face palm> my bad, thought it was a turd :alien:

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Justin
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Justin » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:01 am

emile wrote:He did, can't you see that big yellow blob?

I'll break out the tin of yellow paint :)
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pierre.joubert
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby pierre.joubert » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:04 am

Trad yo. But who's going to trad one route at the Steeple?

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Justin
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Justin » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:14 am

This is what I would like to find out? Would you bring your trad rack to the Sport crag?
(It's fun to trad Gospel Express)
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Franz
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Franz » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:19 am

pierre.joubert wrote:Trad yo. But who's going to trad one route at the Steeple?


Me.

Please keep it trad. There are so many sport routes in Montagu. I've done this route, and its a grate place for newcomers to trad to get exposure. Sport climbers needing low grades are already spoilt for choice in other areas in Montagu with even easier access.

I doubt of sport climbers are going to que up to do a 15 at the furthest part of steeple. Whichever way Justin, you did the FA, so follow your own heart and mind :thumright

peace to all!

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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Franz » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:21 am

This could be a potential favourite for MDT SPSA training??

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d0nK3y
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby d0nK3y » Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:24 am

yeah... leave it trad for sure!

Think "Crack Of Dawn" at Lakeside... its an excellent pitch of trad to introduce people to placing gear and get them up and running on trad!

My 2cents...

Andy Davies
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Andy Davies » Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:10 pm

Tricky question and it would be dissapointing to see a splitter crack with a line of bolts next to it. BUT whats stopping people leading a sport route with trad gear? Saw video with Pete Croft do just that on Vanbelladrome in Yosemite. And yes the bolts did look out of place on that splitter.
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Stu
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Stu » Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:43 pm

Andy Davies wrote:Tricky question and it would be dissapointing to see a splitter crack with a line of bolts next to it. BUT whats stopping people leading a sport route with trad gear? Saw video with Pete Croft do just that on Vanbelladrome in Yosemite. And yes the bolts did look out of place on that splitter.

Man, and Andy Davies usually speaks such sense on the forums :jocolor:

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MargheritaIntrona
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby MargheritaIntrona » Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:45 pm

Trad is rad... :wink:

SNORT
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby SNORT » Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:14 pm

Agree with Andy Davies. So if you wanna spend R200 or so bolting it then fine. I wouldn't bother. And in 20 to 30 years' time the bolts will look messy and require redoing.

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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Andy Davies » Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:10 pm

Stu if Pete Croft the legend can lead a sport route on trad then anybody can. And he didn't even whinge about the bolts :thumleft:

Yes trad is rad and there are some routes which just should never be bolted. For example there is that lovely looking splitter (24?) in the Truitjieskraal gulley. Would love to climb it on trad and if any numbnuts bolts it, I would be dissapointed - read chopity chop :evil:
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Justin
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Justin » Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:19 pm

Thanks for everyone's opinions,

The route will remain a trad line with top anchors. If you want to climb the route, a set of nuts + a couple of mid size cams will get you to the top safetly.
The routes name is 'The Devils Dandruff' Grade +-14

* Please do not remove the two biners at the top!
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Stu
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby Stu » Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:38 pm

Andy Davies wrote:Stu if Pete Croft the legend can lead a sport route on trad then anybody can. And he didn't even whinge about the bolts :thumleft:

Sure, I was simply pointing out that bolting that line and then expecting it to be climbed (in the next 150 years) as an actual trad line is just not gonna happen ;)

Good call on the route Justin, perhaps it can serve as Silas' first trad route :)

mokganjetsi
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby mokganjetsi » Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:09 pm

my after-the-fact-2c: don't think it's the worst thing if you bolt it; can still be traded (mcninja got me into trading routes at lower silvermine when we take beginners out); it is a sport crag afterall and the it's not an exceptional crack like crack of dawn. but is it really worth it to bolt it? good call in the end imho.

and good on you to get some views on it! :thumleft:

paddy
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Re: To bolt or not to bolt, that is the question

Postby paddy » Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:28 pm

Think it is worthwhile leaving as trad and seeing how it goes. There is a shortage of easily accessible single pitch trad routes that can also be lowered from (thinking about climbing parents who may want to take toddlers to the crag and still enjoy tradding but would presumably be adverse to abandoning said toddler while buggering off on a multi pitch climb and/or a long and winding descent). However, based on the Bosch experience (where the classic Latin Lessons seemed to accumulate cobwebs until bolted), I suspect that your lower off crabs may be safe. Another example is the crack corner (name ???) at legoland.


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