Maltese Cross

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Real Name: Rainer Pausewang

Maltese Cross

Postby Achta » Mon Jan 23, 2012 4:06 pm

Hey guys! I would like to climb the Maltese Cross, but I don't want to carry all my equipment all the way uphill. Does anybody know what exactly is necessary for the climb (Original Route, Direct Route), i.e. cams, wires?

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Nic Le Maitre
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Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Maltese Cross

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:42 pm


The original route has sketchy gear. You will need a #2 or #3 stopper (take some small nuts) for the first piece, a thin (dyneema) sling for a little chicken head, then there is a rusty piton before the left traverse, then a 0.75 camalot for a pocket on the traverse and there is a good piton at the extreme left hand edge of the traverse. Take some tat for the rap point too.
Happy climbing

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Re: Maltese Cross

Postby Justin » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:44 pm

Grade is about 16 and you can do it with a single rope.
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Re: Maltese Cross

Postby robertbreyer » Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:00 pm

roue topo is in Tony's Cederberg Guide book. the Wolfberg one. R130. i remember a small alien being useful lower down. and the standard route is grade 18, not 16.
and yes CapeNature apparently doesnt want you to climb the thing, but i won't tell if you won't tell.

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Re: Maltese Cross

Postby Achta » Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:13 pm

Thanks a lot!

Chris F
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Re: Maltese Cross

Postby Chris F » Tue Jan 24, 2012 5:44 pm

Is the poor thing still covered in heaps of messy ab tat? There must have been at least a dozen bits in various states when I did it (early 1996*). Do everyone a favour and cut off all the skanky bits and take them home. Place one bit of your own and, if you must, leave one other best looking bit.

This will make it nicer for everyone to look at, and might soften Cape Nature up a bit about climbers leaving it in a mess.

* for all I know it might be free of tat at the moment and if so ignore my bletherings.

FWIW I thought it was fun for a tick, but you can walk the same distance to better rock climbs in the area. IMO.

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