Help with first time bolter

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CraigBurden
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Real Name: Craig Burden
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Help with first time bolter

Postby CraigBurden » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:25 pm

Hi guys,

I've never bolted anything before, but I have some idea of how to do it. I have a few questions, First off: Can you just bolt anywhere you want? For Instance if I wanted to bolt a new route in Silvermine (Not on the any pre-established crag), where many route are already bolted, would I need permission? Second: How much does it cost (Aproxx.) to bolt a 20m route? Third: Should I buy clip in's for the chains? Is it a safety issue with them being exposed to the elements and all?

Just a few questions I can think of right now!

Craig
Climb for life!

mokganjetsi
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby mokganjetsi » Tue Sep 06, 2011 8:23 am

can't give you any answers but suggest you have a chat with the guys from the ARF - they're the business. see if you can join them on a re-bolting exercise; you'll learn what you need to learn there. bolting is a massive responsibility and should not be done without proper skill &/or supervision. hope you find some good lines! :thumleft:

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Justin
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Justin » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:20 am

Hi Craig,

1.) No. You may not bolt anywhere, most of the areas in the Cape Peninsula fall under the Table Mountain Nation Park (TMNP).

2.) +- R50 per bolt + R200 for top anchors (remember to use only 316 Stainless Steel bolts)

3.) Assuming you buy good quality clip-in's (similar to the ones at the mine) they will be fine. However they are more costly than 'rings'.

There is a procedure to follow for bolting routes - I will make it available here as soon as I get hold of it.

Bolting is not always that simple, I recommend getting someone who has bolted before to give you a hand.
In the mean time check out this thread with regards to bolting --> Looking for a bolting mentor

See also:
- ARF
- Replacing chains, need advice
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justin@climbing.co.za

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Turtle
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Real Name: Jacques Redelinghuys

Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Turtle » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:51 am

Please come by CityROCK, we have some advice, and we're selling the Raumer glue-ins and all sorts of clip options AT COST to any bolters/re-bolters. That means it'll cost you a little less than what Justin mentioned. We do this to show our support of safe bolting/re-bolting, we're not making money with this.
But let it be known: we only support safe bolting/re-bolting. We support good practice, so issues like getting permission to bolt and general bolting safety is a priority to us. So rather be safe than sorry.

awe :thumright

ps: busy negotiating a shipment of right quality expansion bolts coming our way in 2 weeks, so if you don't want to go the 'glue-ins' route, come get the right type of expansion bolt from us in 2 weeks. And using 316 steel is NOT the only thing you need to be looking at re expansion bolts, btw.

Wayne73
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Wayne73 » Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:43 pm

Contact the MCSA rock subcom with regards to where you may or may not bolt. But it isn't about whether you may bolt a line it is a question of should you, remember the line is going to be there long after you are done with it if it is a decent line then great if it is rubbish well then maybe you should not bolt it, xmod has written stuff about haw to check out a line so maybe get hold of him. As to technical compencies I would suggest you follow Mok's advice about seeking out the ARF.

This comment is not meant to be negative or a physc killer, but I am not in favour of bolting as a rule, even if I am a troll sometimes. I am however a hippocrit as I will clip bolts on the occasion that i get my lard arse off the couch and am then greatful that someone has gone through the effort and expanse to bolt lines. So to embrace my hippocracy good luck to finding a killer line for me to be able to bitch about and enjoy climbing.
Fat men are harder to kidnap

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Justin
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Justin » Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:53 pm

Justin wrote:You may not bolt anywhere, most of the areas in the Cape Peninsula fall under the Table Mountain Nation Park (TMNP).

This doesn't necessarily mean that you may not bolt your route, just that you need to go about it the correct way.
I've asked someone on the MCSA rock subcom to comment or send the procedures through.
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CraigBurden
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby CraigBurden » Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:42 pm

Ok, so what do you mean i can or cant blot in the table mountain park? I'm planning on bolting in Silvermine as I mentioned, but not on any existing crag, is that fine?
Climb for life!

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Justin
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Justin » Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:50 pm

There is a procedure to follow for bolting in this area (TMNP / Silvermine) - You need permission to bolt. This involves sending a request to the MCSA Rock Sub Com with details of the route(s).
Once they have looked it over and given you the go ahead then you may bolt.

Just to be clear: Silvermine falls into TMNP area.
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Wayne73
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Re: Help with first time bolter

Postby Wayne73 » Tue Sep 06, 2011 3:38 pm

Hey Craig

Google MCSA cape town and get in contact with the Rock sub-commitee, Have a picture of your route and exact location and they will give you the go ahead or not.
Fat men are harder to kidnap


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