Beta Bulls eye

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neelsie
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:34 am
Location: cape town

Beta Bulls eye

Post by neelsie » Sat Feb 11, 2006 11:24 am

Could anyone give a bit of beta for the 3rd '18' pitch on bulls eye lower buttress. The move \"past the old peg\" in the roof felt damn hard for an 18' actually was the hardest of all the pitches even though the others are graded 19' + 20'. Not sure if I'm missing something...

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lelikegogga
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 2:07 pm
Real Name: phlip olivier
Location: somerset-west

Post by lelikegogga » Sat Feb 11, 2006 6:17 pm

I remember getting a slight knee bar on the flat of the roof and having to reach far up and to the left for the good hold. Also had a 'b(@%)it' of a scary moment right there. I think it is because the hold is hard to see and more to the left than what you originally think. So it's more of a 'freacking me out scary' move, than it being a 'hard' move.

Hope this is of some help. If not.. interesting. I also felt that bit to be the (probably mentaly) harder part of the route.

neelsie
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:34 am
Location: cape town

Post by neelsie » Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:29 pm

cheers for that a great help I really appreciate it! Another question! If anyone can answer it, the last pitch of quacks(also lower buttress) grade 20' goes left where bombay duck goes right seems damn near impossible to. Maybe I'm just getting weaker I don't know... :lol:

Brussel
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Post by Brussel » Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:11 pm

The move is reasonable at 20 on toprope not to hard a two move wonder. On lead it is harder becuase the only place to place gear is near teh top of the crack right at the hold for your fingers....sigh

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