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 Post subject: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 787
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Hi

So I'm a buying a new trad rack and half ropes. I have sold my old rack and ropes and realized that with my Beal Jokers gone, I no longer have a sport rope.
I'm a pretty mediocre sport climber and would rather go trad climbing but for those days where I cannot find a trad partner and have to head to Silvermine or wherever to clip some bolts, I would prefer to have my own rope.

Any recommendations? (I know there was a post about this recently but I can't find it now)

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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 7:34 am
Posts: 193
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Brenda Marx
I think for your use the Beal Edlinger would not be a bad buy, as you don't need a high performance (these usually don't have such a long lifetime) rope. Edlinger is great value for money.


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3068
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Hey Nic,

Check out the 'rope rope rope rope' thread.

Be interested to hear what you decide on and why? 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 5:04 pm
Posts: 47
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Real Name: Vanessa Lane
Just buy the one with the best colour, has worked for me every time, yes really! :thumright
Oh, and make sure it's long enough.


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 787
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Justin wrote:
Hey Nic,

Check out the 'rope rope rope rope' thread.

Be interested to hear what you decide on and why? 8)


Thanks Justin, that is the thread I was looking for, my forum search skills are lacking!

Will let you know what I pick and why, even if it is just that I like the colour :thumleft:

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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:39 am
Posts: 156
Location: Cape Town (mostly :) )
Hey Nic
TBH I'm not a big fan of using single ropes as trad ropes, mostly because I like the lower impact forces (usually associated with half-ropes) to help keep manky pro / rock intact when the proverbial hits the fan, but I also quite like the redundancy offered by using double ropes in this regard.

There are a few exceptions to my thinking, most notably in AID where I prefer to aid on single lines and deal with the added weight of carrying two if needing to free climb. As always there is a compromise - and I know that my 'lower impact force' statement above is at odds with my aid statement below it, but I compromise by using screamers where necessary and gain on the jumar / simplicity of the single rope in the aid environment.

In a sport climbing environment I have long been an advocate for skinny ropes, so your dual-purpose helps here. I also appreciate the financial motivations for trying to dual-purpose your ropes. Back in the day when I was poorer than I am now (that's saying something) I tradded and sported on a Beal 9.7x60, and in fact it was part of the system which caught me on Du Toits (tho the line which actually took the load was a half rope). These days I'm privileged to have a a plethora of rope (its called gear testing :thumright )
- a set of Apus 60's for Alpine
- a set of Shikra's for Trad
- a shortened (40m) set of Apus (well used and retired from water intensive Ice / Alpine)
- a Falcon & a Hawk for sport

And even with the above options I still, occasionally, battle to decide what to take where.

For your (potential) dual-use there will be arriving in August a few Swift's - Edelrids 8.9 single (and more). Ask your local dealer (rope dealer, I have yet to 'crack' the Nigerian control of the street corners). If that fails, PM me and I'll point you in the right direction (dealer wise) :jocolor:


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 787
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Hi Tristan

Shot for the advice. I'm in agreement with you on the using a dedicated rope for each type of climbing. My Jokers were too heavy for trad and too lightweight to survive as a sport rope (although they had a really low impact factor, a gradual halt rather than a sudden stop) and were bought when I could not afford to buy a single rope and two half ropes. But now I have some money, which is why I'm looking for a dedicated sport rope.

Edelrid ropes are getting good reviews, I'd be happy to test one of those Swifts :jocolor:

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Nic


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 722
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
Colour is everything.


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:15 pm
Posts: 3
Real Name: dale boucher
Pink ropes are best :jocolor:


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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
Posts: 555
Location: Waterval Boven
O R A N G E

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013 257 0363
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 Post subject: Re: Best sport rope
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 26, 2011 5:29 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Johann J.V.R
Blue Water Eliminator 10.2mm :afro: i had that same question about 3 months back

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