Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:22 pm

Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Postby jemtuck » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:45 am

My mission for 2011 is Devils Tooth. Anyone out there with more info (beta/topos/anything!!!!) on Devil's Tooth. Any bolts, what kind of rack is recommended, please guys anything, I would hate to haul a full trad rack up that gully to find the route bolted, for example. Additionall,y the position of the Tooth Cave as I would like to overnight there before climbing next day.

Have a lekker New Year and climb safe!!


Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:57 pm

Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Postby amm » Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:18 pm

Have a look at the MCSA Journal (approx 1985 or 6) for a topo of the route and approach.
(drawn by Adele Margetts)
But there is no doubt more recent info.

Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:48 pm

Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Postby douard » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:35 pm

Give a BIG thank you to Gavin Pekham and click on the link:


Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:01 pm

Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Postby DolphinDawie » Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:02 am

Just some more beta:

Approach: Follow tooth gully (in) the river. There is a short compulsory wade early on after which you can keep your shoes on. See attached pic for me with an unhappy face missioning up the gully. We had just tried to avoid the wade and wasted an hour in the bushes :)
Gear: Bring tat and a few long slings, as well as a light rack. The first 3 pitches can be climbed almost solely on pitons. The A1 (actually A0) bit goes free at 21ish. There are a bunch of unnecessary bolts on the top left over from some dude's arb tyrolean rig, but you can rap off them (yay!).
Strategy: You can actually do the whole shebang in a day. We drive to the park and slept outside the gate somewhere, and then started early in the morning. We were back in JHB having beers at the jolly at 9pm. We were quite surprised. I know that others have done it JHB to JHB in a day.

Have fun!
61692_1356292636671_1512142601_30752232_7525123_n.jpg (57.05 KiB) Viewed 1541 times

Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:22 pm

Re: Devil's Tooth Beta or Topo

Postby jemtuck » Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:26 pm

Thanx for the info guys, looking better and better all the time. I dunno about calling Alard arb!!! but never mind. Maybe getting too old to do it in a day.

Safe climbing


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