New Multi pitch sport route in the cederberg

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Scott
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Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:06 pm
Real Name: Scott Miller

New Multi pitch sport route in the cederberg

Postby Scott » Thu Dec 09, 2010 3:50 pm

New 4 pitch sport route at Nuwerust rest camp Rooiberg

40 Ounce to Freedom 17,18,19,17 S Miller
pitch 1 (17) 28m start 3 meters to the left of the route "huge jugs" go past the lower offs at the top and carry on for 3 meters to the chains above.

pitch 2 (18) 29m traverse 4-5 meters right and head up line of bolts.

Pitch 3 (19) 25m traverse 5 meters left and follow bolts straight up.

Pitch 4 (17) 10m head up and left to diagonal offwitdth.

The rock on the route is of excellent quality but the ledges along the way have loose rock on them, use caution and common sense, wear a helmet.

Equipment needed- 12 draws, 60m rope

Descent. abseil the route (NOTE 60m rope required) or from top of pitch 4 traverse up and left on easy terrain till you reach the top of Rooiberg. Follow cliff to the left until you find the descent trail cairns.

PLEASE NOTE The last 6 meters (roughly 5% of the route) of this sport route follow the last 6 meters of Dave Mercers excellent trade line. For the interest of completeness the route shares this section. In keeping with the mixture of sport and trade at this venue I hope that people understand the need for the last few bolts.

forty.jpg
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Ray
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Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:08 am
Real Name: Raymond Kroger

Re: New Multi pitch sport route in the cederberg

Postby Ray » Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:07 am

Hi Scott

We did the route "Paragon" (?) (14,15,14,17, N) 2 weeks back and came across your bolt-line. Just a question, Where is the 19 crux? We found the bolts from pitch 2 onwards and the RD for Paragon has it marked as a 16/15? Or is there another multi-pitch sport line? They definitely have the same ending. Maybe we were off-route?

Ray

Warren G
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: New Multi pitch sport route in the cederberg

Postby Warren G » Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:28 am

out of curiosity roughy how many bolted multipitches are the in the Cederberg? good to know where one can go for an easy adventure.

I thought all the sport multipitches in WP were on Cogmans- obviously i am not local :alien:
Sandbagging is a dirty game

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Scott
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:06 pm
Real Name: Scott Miller

Re: New Multi pitch sport route in the cederberg

Postby Scott » Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:15 pm

Ray wrote:Hi Scott

We did the route "Paragon" (?) (14,15,14,17, N) 2 weeks back and came across your bolt-line. Just a question, Where is the 19 crux? We found the bolts from pitch 2 onwards and the RD for Paragon has it marked as a 16/15? Or is there another multi-pitch sport line? They definitely have the same ending. Maybe we were off-route?

Ray


Hey Ray! The sport route zig zags through Paramour a bit. Pitch 2 of Paramour is about 4 meters to the left of the sport route. Then at the ledge the cross and the sport route is about 4/5 meters to the left of Paramour. The goal was to steer clear of traded/trade_able terrain and go all the way to the top with a sport route. All but the last 5 meters I think did this.

Pitch 3 of the sport route feels 18/19 and this was the consensus after three people did the pitch.


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