Sands of Time - linking pitches

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
User avatar
gollum
Posts: 98
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:52 pm
Real Name: Lukas Malan
Location: Cape Town

Sands of Time - linking pitches

Postby gollum » Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:42 pm

I climbed Sands of Time at Paarl last weekend. Awesome route, and good mental training for a wuss climber such as myself. On a sideline - has anyone here ever fallen on granite slab climbing?

My question: Can pitches 2 and 3 be linked? Because that hanging stance is horrible and to me kind of spoiled the route. With a 60m rope one can easily link these pitches, the only issue that remains is rope drag (which I imagine, thanks to the runouts, would be tolerable).

Then a note on the bolts: Many of the hangers are loose (can be tightened BY HAND), and some of the hangers look green and rusty. And what's up with the fixed biners on the hanging belay's bolts?

Cheers
gollum
"I have no more friends, and my nuts are too small!"

Stu
Posts: 572
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Re: Sands of Time - linking pitches

Postby Stu » Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:58 pm

gollum wrote:I climbed Sands of Time at Paarl last weekend. Awesome route, and good mental training for a wuss climber such as myself. On a sideline - has anyone here ever fallen on granite slab climbing?

Yes. "Run Forest, run!"

My question: Can pitches 2 and 3 be linked? Because that hanging stance is horrible and to me kind of spoiled the route. With a 60m rope one can easily link these pitches, the only issue that remains is rope drag (which I imagine, thanks to the runouts, would be tolerable).

Which hanging stance? I added an extra bolt on the second stance for comfort a while back? Either you missed it or don't know how to use your rope to create an extended comfortable tie-in - very useful on multi-pitch climbs.

Then a note on the bolts: Many of the hangers are loose (can be tightened BY HAND), and some of the hangers look green and rusty. And what's up with the fixed biners on the hanging belay's bolts?

Tighten the bolts with a spanner.
Green & rusty no. Camouflaged, yes.
Many people prefer to retreat from the second pitch instead of climbing the diagonal traverse pitch - the biners aren't my doing though.

jimbo
Posts: 80
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:35 pm

Re: Sands of Time - linking pitches

Postby jimbo » Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:22 pm

hey gollum

Yeah pitches 2 and 3 can be linked. I did it the other day with a ~65m rope. there was a fair amount of rope left and I dont remember rope drag being a problem. I also crapped myself on the last pitch if thats the slab you were referring to.

jimbo


Return to “Beta Section”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest