Knobless Robot

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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henkg
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Real Name: Henk Grobler

Knobless Robot

Postby henkg » Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:11 pm

Need some Beta. I just could not do the move after railing left at the start of the 18 pitch. Feet are desperate and I peeled before I could find a hold above the rail.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

shorti
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby shorti » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:10 am

I remember a high slopy grip to the left for your left foot, but the memory isn't very clear. I thought it might help until someone have better beta. Brenda and Toni climbed it the other day, speak to them if you know them, I'm sure they can remember what to do. It must have been an exciting fall, how far did you fall?

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henkg
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby henkg » Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:21 am

Don't know Toni and Brenda. Did you find the grading reasonable? Maybe my mind, but that rail left is character building, I must be missing the feet placements? The fall was more a swing and I could find my way up the face of the halfway ledge.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

shorti
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby shorti » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:00 am

haha! Yes, I thought it was reasonable, but it was rather cold when I climbed it, I'm sure it made a difference. I can't remember it being extremely difficult, but the crux is definitely the last part of the rail and getting to a comfortable position above the rail. Maybe I'm confusing it with another climb, but I might have got my left foot up high on that slopy grip with my hand(s) still right on the last bit of the rail. I think towards the left there was a bit of a corner (i.e. the rock face isn't flat) so I could push sideways and down with my foot. This way I could lever myself up high enough to reach small grips above. I'm not sure of all the above, but I'm very sure I found a way to use my feet, I definitely didn't arm up it.

mokganjetsi
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby mokganjetsi » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:45 am

maybe this picture helps to find the line?
knobless roofs.jpg
knobless roofs.jpg (190.26 KiB) Viewed 1892 times

shorti
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby shorti » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:25 pm

Ah! Yes, now it makes more sense. If you draw a line straight above that handsome climber's head, above the roof, there is a small corner. That is where I had my feet.

Warren G
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby Warren G » Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:12 pm

Sorry to poach but as we are talking the same Robot we got on the route to the left of the above spoken of route:

The RD claims its a 21 that involves "a desbrate move, then traverse slightly left then up to the top." well, the desperate move is fine-bit long really- but what happens next THAT is desperation unexpected on a 21! and it can't be that we are a tall team either: the "desperate" move is eased by height but the following move is designed for midgets.

for the record the leader of that pitch successfully lead a 26 on trad the next day, but couldn't do the Robot route and had to traverse further left then the RD specified. and before we got onto Knobless Robot he lead both crux pitches of Celestial Journey flawlessly!
Sandbagging is a dirty game

Gadget
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby Gadget » Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:48 pm

There are some very good photos showing the route with Woody on it (incl front-page) in an article called ‘Codgers reloaded’ in the SA Mountain Mag (a few editions ago) – but not much in the way of description.

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henkg
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby henkg » Mon Nov 22, 2010 2:38 pm

Technology is a great thing. Here I sit in my office and relive climbing time!

Shorti, if you had your feet on the indicated spot it means I did not rail far enough. Before that it is smearing and one tiny corner for the feet.

Thanks for the help. Any comments about Energy Supplement? I would like to go for it soon.
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knobless%20roofs.JPG
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You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

shorti
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby shorti » Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:51 pm

Yes, that's the spot. I remember you run out of rail, so yes, I think you were a meter short maybe. I can't remember smearing much, but from the photo it looks like you have to. I think there is a grip just above and to the right of the circle you drew.

mokganjetsi
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby mokganjetsi » Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:17 pm

i vaguely remember pulling through a crack-break-thingy in the roof - very much like the one about a meter to the right of henk's circle. and there wasn't much footing - it was strenuous on the arms. shorti's legs will be able to reach a corner where most us won't.....

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tygereye
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby tygereye » Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:13 pm

Shew, I was so focused on not falling that I don't really remember what I came up with! I think I smeared on the face. The friction on this rock is superb. And I think I went up the circled bit where shorti had his feet, went straight up the face and slightly diagonally right. The hand grips were always positive and placements were good.
But please don't hold me to this as I might be completely wrong. And the details of the moves have escaped me completely. Hope this helps at all.

physiolizard
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby physiolizard » Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:35 pm

Well, there, you have Brenda's viewpoint, Henk and Shorti! I lead the first pitch, the easy 17. Brenda lead the 18 and we were astounded at the difference between the two. The second was more like a 20! NOTHING for the feet! I can remember brenda had to downclimb a section before moving back up. As the second I remember it was just on the arms...was great to get to the top!

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henkg
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby henkg » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:41 pm

Thanks guys and gals! I have no more excuse then. Also thought the 1st pitch 17 a bit easy. The 2nd pitch I followed previously, but short circuited the rail, going straight up. I think at least a 19 move.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

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tygereye
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Re: Knobless Robot

Postby tygereye » Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:35 am

Oh, the downclimb! Almost forgot about that. We didn't have the RD with us, so I just went with this elephantic memory of mine and guessed the line. I placed a piece of gear way off to the right and then only decided I had to move left at the start of the second pitch. Up on the next ledge I realised the rope drag would be too much so I downclimbed to take out the cam I placed off route.
:eye:


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