Paarl - New and unpublished routes

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Hann
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Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Hann » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:28 pm

After a Sunny Saturday at the Mine the Gogga and I venture to a windy and rainy Paarl on Sunday to scout for new trad lines.

We investigated the most obvious lines, only to find chains on some and a bolt line on another.

Does anybody have any info on these routes?
The routes are on the plateau between the Splinter area and the Two Cents Slab.

We climbed the easy sport line (Can't imagine it to be a project, but apologies if it is)

Stu
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Stu » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:45 pm

Your description is a little vague.
Are they visible on this picture?

Image

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Hann
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Hann » Mon Oct 11, 2010 2:00 pm

Nope, not visible on you photo.
Did I get your location correct on the map?
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Stu
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Stu » Mon Oct 11, 2010 7:28 pm

Nice pic. Yeah that's the Splinter area.
Interesting, the routes can't be that high then?

How old are those chains, because I know AdK opened opened a crack somewhere around there in 1985:
Crank Prank '24'
"From the top of the Splinter Boulder, one can see a tor with a thin crack in it, about 100m down the slope towards the houses. Traverse in from the right and climb the crack."

This is the one route in the Paarl Rocks guide that I never actually got around to examining :pirat:

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henkg
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby henkg » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:40 pm

Hann wrote: new trad lines.



Trad lines or rad lines. Looks more like boulder problems to me.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

garvinj
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby garvinj » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:44 am

Hi Guys
Steven Reed Bolted the 16 with 3 bolts and anchors and called it Lily's line. The trad with chains is also his graded 18 and called Hidden Gem. "Easy if you know how to jam" he says.

He also re bolted(with Stainless Steel 90mm bolts) Wonderland anchors on the top pitches after David Davies had redone the bottom.

Garvin
PS Steven can't access his profile. Someone tell him how to please.

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Hann
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Hann » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:48 am

Thanks Garvin.

The description sound spot on. I think Lily's Line may have 4 or 5 bolts though (?)

@ Stu.
Ja, the routes are quite short.

Marshall1
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby Marshall1 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:14 pm

Steven already has a line called Lily's Line, in Pinnacle Gorge. To avoid duplication prehaps we can change the Pinnacle route to some thing cool.

garvinj
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby garvinj » Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:53 pm

Something cool would be a interesting name. Call it Steven's renamed route. Or lily's x-route.

Surely no one will confuse Paarl with Pinnacle. Don't stir
Garvin

fivesix
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby fivesix » Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:09 pm

Dang, whats the bouldering like in that area? Those could be some mean highballs?!?!

Or just blank faces :(

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lelikegogga
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Re: Paarl - New and unpublished routes

Postby lelikegogga » Tue Nov 02, 2010 11:57 pm

Updated the wiki with info and some pics. Those in the know, please check to confirm if correct.


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