Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

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Flex
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Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Flex » Tue Aug 24, 2010 4:36 pm

I just wanted to send a huge high-five to Arjan for all the cranking he's been doing recently. Every time I look at the 8a.nu updates I see another 8B or 8B+ send. This is especially impressive since (as far as I know) no other South African has done any 8B+ and Arjan has now done a handful.

I would also like to ask why Arjan's achievements have not been lauded adequately on this site. I know Arjan is not looking for the praise but I think he deserves it all the same. This standard of bouldering puts him amongst the best in the world and is an inspiration to the rest of us.

Well done Arjan - keep cranking!

Flex

M@
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by M@ » Tue Aug 24, 2010 4:46 pm

:thumleft:

micky
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by micky » Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:06 pm

for some more info ...

Arjan has sent 4 8B+ 4 8B's and an 8A+Flash. For those not so clued on the boulder grades 8C is the hardest in the world so far. Also Arjans boulders are only kept as log book ascents and not ranked but if you look online at what the top 10 are scoring i would not be surprised if Arjan was in the top 5 boulderers in the world.

Unfortunately local media is a bit behind and unpsyched... :roll:

PaulB
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by PaulB » Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:02 pm

Super cool to have a truly world class climber out there! What's so impressive is how quickly he's done it.. Psyche!

ShaunH
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by ShaunH » Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:49 pm

Because measuring stuff is important...and mostly because Arjan probably does not care, I tried to make some sense of 8a.nu's weighing, measuring and judging system and weigh (not much if you have seen him), measure (not sure, but my call is still out to the local Clanwilliam slappers, perhaps Justin can confirm if I have the right number) and judge (see following attempt at scoring). My best guess is that Arjan has 11153 points putting him currently in 6th spot in the world rankings. If he pulls finger and does one more 8B, for a limited time only, he will be the third greatest boulder in the known ranked universe.

Either way, a bloody fine effort.

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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by SouthAfricanMan » Tue Aug 24, 2010 9:40 pm

The long and the short of it is Arjan is the best climber this country has ever produced. I find it strange that so few people have noticed. Considering how quickly he is ticking off these problems and how quickly he has improved I can see him being in the top 3 boulders in the world soon, maybe next season.

serious respect Arjan

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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by mokganjetsi » Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:41 pm

yeah, amped for all us saffas. now for that 1st 9a send on sport.....

jeff
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by jeff » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:22 am

Micky wrote:Unfortunately local media is a bit behind and unpsyched... :roll:
Local media will have absolutely no way of finding out about ascents if the climber in question doesnt want media, or if no-one lets the anyone know. I'm in the media, have always said i'd love to cover more climbing, but this is the first I've heard of it..unfortunately coverage is only as good as the climber / friend / manager's efforts to send the story and pics out.. :wink:

Flex
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Flex » Wed Aug 25, 2010 12:15 pm

Jeff, please excuse my bluntness, but what a load of k*k! How exactly do you think the rest of us know about this? Arjan may not keep a scorecard on 8a.nu but he does log his sends on the logbook facility on 8a.nu. Each time he logs another world-class boulder send, an update saying so appears on the climb.co.za homepage. However, a proper story outlining what is clearly the best sending spree by any South African ever does not appear. I think this is poor form!

jeff
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by jeff » Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:03 pm

Think before talking flex. What do you know about how sports media work??You are aware of it because your world revolves around climbing. I;'m on air every morning between 6 and 9, and am required to cover all the major sports stories world wide in a 4 and a half minute sports bulleton. What i cover is determined firstly by listener demands, ie, I have to cover rugby, soccer, cricket, golf and motorsport as primary interest sports. Then I need to cover 'secondary' interest such as athletics / tennis / hockey. These sports are fed to us on a plate, by the bucketful.

I then find time to cover the 'satellite sports' that I'm passionate about, ie surfing / climbing / yachting / adventure racing etc. These sports are not sent to us, and are not always easy to access due to time / work constraints. The mornings are usually crazy setting up and packaging interviews of the main sports.

I get my adventure racing / surfing / sailing stuff by enthusiasts in the community that take the time to phone me, or drop me a mail saying " hey, big wave surfers are doing X, or Ryan Sandes has done Y in this adventure race..", and I love to cover that shit.

So before telling me I'm talking kak, get off your ass and put something in place where I get sent climbing news thats happening..and I will cover it. I'm a climber, and have asked guys on numerous occasions to let me know if there is news worthy stuff. And I get zilch.

And if this mail sounds OTT, it's because my buddies in climbing know how passionate I am about covering the sports I do..and it pisses me off when i get told I'm talking shite. :x

dom
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by dom » Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:14 pm

jeff wrote:...
Jeff, I'm with Flex here (although I think that he is referring to local climbing media, not local mainstream sports media).

You're a journalist and, as such, you're paid to gather news. If we, as interested parties, know more about what's going on than you do (despite your professing to wanting to know what's going on), that's as much as reflection as your inability to cultivate the relationships needed to do your job as it is on our 'unwillingness' to tell you.
the fresh prince of darkness

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Justin
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Justin » Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:49 pm

Hi All,

Thanks for bringing this up and all the input.
Getting news sent to us is like pulling teeth (A BIG UP to all those people who have sent in news/articles and loaded pics to the gallery :thumleft:

Here is some info that was posted recently on Arjan:
- When the water blew up and shit went down
- Arjan de Kock grabbed the 2nd ascent of one of Fred Nicole's classics 'Golden Shadow' 8B+

Note: that anyone can add their bit to the Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening?? or send it to info@climbing.co.za and we will post it in the news.

I've been away for the last 3 weeks and have not always been able to get online (I have many more excuses where that came from).

So anyway... Arjan is busy doing tea with 'The President' but I'll hopefully catch up with him tomorrow sometime.
Watch this space :bom:
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micky
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by micky » Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:19 pm

i was referring to local climbing media in my post.

I think having news like Arjans big sends on the bottom of page 8 of some forum post called 'whats happening' is pretty lame ... but i've expressed this before and its only my opinion...

SAMM er i think i've expressed my views on that too :)

Cool that you are interested in talking about climbing in you sports report Jeff :thumleft:

jeff
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by jeff » Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:35 pm

dom wrote:
jeff wrote:...
You're a journalist and, as such, you're paid to gather news. If we, as interested parties, know more about what's going on than you do (despite your professing to wanting to know what's going on), that's as much as reflection as your inability to cultivate the relationships needed to do your job as it is on our 'unwillingness' to tell you.
You may have missed my point earlier Dom..you know more because it's your 'life', and you're passionate to know what going on in climbing. I'm trying to stay updated with international sport worldwide..and I'm needing to know whats happening daily with hundreds of sports.. thats what I'm paid for.

If climbing was a sport listeners wanted to know about, I would certainly be paid to keep up. But in all honesty, 99.9 percent of the listeners dont know, and dont care, about rock climbing. The reason I ask the guys to drop me a mail if there's something exciting, is because there is then an 'excuse' for me to feature climbing on a report that is extremely restricted for time. IE, the reason I offered is for the climbing community. Exposure may grow interest, may grow corporate interest..and suddenly Roc N road can try and get money / coverage on TV..it starts slowly.

Thats my thinking. either way, my bosses, and most listeners..dont give a toss. sad but true. The other small sports mail me stuff all the time, and I can select..iit doesnt seem to be a mission for them??

I havnt been getting out much, Ev Wiercx dragged my ass out bouldering occasionally when he was here, but apart from that, I'm outta the loop. So again, if interesting stuff is happening, and you want radio coverage..you can mail me - jeffa@ewn.co.za

peace out.

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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:05 pm

flex & dom, you guys came out guns blazing when there was no need for it. "how to make friends and influence people" is a recommended read :mrgreen:

on to something constructive (i hope): having a report - radio or written - saying arjan is cranking like a moffie (i suppose that is what mo-fo really means :wink: ) and recently sent 8B+ is completely meaningless to anybody outside the climbing community. to create awareness & impact you have to create context. saying arjan is now the nr 3 boulderer in the world will certainly get a few eyebrows raised. adding a picture of him cranking through some diabolical sequence on crimps with his muscles rippling in the sunlight and his facial expression looking like a nuclear explosion will create the real context & a feel for what he has accomplished. hard sport & bouldering lends itself to visual representation and it draws attention. the guys at work goes "ooh and ahhh" when i show off with a picture of me on power pigeon with terra firma far below in the distance.

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Justin
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Justin » Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:00 am

Just to give more support to Jeff, he has in the past mentioned climbing events that took place. Thanks again Jeff.

:idea: If you have any questions you would like to ask Arjan, post them here / mail them to me and I'll put them to him.
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Flex
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Flex » Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:30 am

I was referring to South African climbing media in my post. If Jeff has a guilty conscience and thought I was talking about him, then that is his issue.

The primary focus of me starting this thread was to draw attention to something hugely positive and inspirational to local climbers.

I am disappointed, however, that the exploits of one of our own has not been trumpeted in the local climbing media. Meanwhile the Pou brothers doing another multi-pitch route in Italy (and similar stories) gets a story link on the homepage. Surely, there is something wrong here?

Wep159
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Wep159 » Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:26 pm

Respect Arjan!! So sick!! Keep it up. :thumleft:

Hope to see some footage or even a pic or two soon!!

Andy Davies
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Andy Davies » Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:54 pm

Nice going Arjan. I am very impressed with your passion for the sport and hard work ethic. Hope you get to tick some big routes overseas sometime.
AndyDavies

peanut
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by peanut » Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:02 am

Some info from 8a:

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D6804

Seems he is getting the exposure he deserves..... awesome..

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lelikegogga
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by lelikegogga » Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:21 am

ossem!
saaik!

Flex
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Flex » Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:35 pm

That's great!

Right, so the international climbing media has caught on. Now for the South African climbing media...

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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by brianweaver » Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:28 am

11198 is Arjan's new score with his 8A onsight. This puts him into 5th position in the world... UNBELIEVABLE!!
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

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Justin
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by Justin » Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:53 am

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SouthAfricanMan
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Re: Arjan cranking like a mo-fo!

Post by SouthAfricanMan » Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:26 pm

Arjan's comment from the 8A article:
the people are humbled by beautiful boulders and the ascents thereof!
What's up with the modestly and what did you do with the old Arjan?

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