Gradings: Onsight or Redpoint

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Russell Warren
Posts: 244
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 7:25 am
Real Name: Russell Warren
Location: Durban

Gradings: Onsight or Redpoint

Post by Russell Warren » Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:56 am

Guy has opened quite a number of routes so I reckon his statement that the grading is for the onsight carries quite a bit of weight. Can the other guys like Derek, Andy, Greg, the Noy brothers, Ross, Tony, Jason, Clinton, Marijus, Jeremy Samson, Roger Nattrass, Andy de Klerk, Jeremy Colenso and Stuart Brown and any others that are or were active bolters please comment on how they grade their routes. I think this is fairly important issue. I am not dissing either method, it would just be nice to have an idea how each first ascensionest has approached it. I realise some of the guys mentioned above either don't climb or bolt anymore, but hopefully they might read this.

Derek Marshall

Post by Derek Marshall » Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:17 am

I grade everything till 24 onsight, but from 24 red point. I think that it can become very difficult to read the moves first time, correctly past 24. Some 24s may be more diffucult to read than others, but that does not mean that the moves are more difficult to pull. Thus readability may affect onsight grades past 24.

How many South Africans have onsighted above 29? At a point onsight grades lose their relevance. That point is 24 for me.
By no means get the impression that I onsight loads of 24s. the above method is just my way, not the only way.

G u y

Post by G u y » Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:24 am

Please see my comments in \"Metric System - Throw out SA Sport Grading\"

G u y

Post by G u y » Tue Dec 13, 2005 1:11 pm

Seeing Derek's response - here my method.

I recently opened a new route in Oorlogs Kloof in Montagu. Day 1 I bolted the route and toproped it. Day 2, I toproped it again and spent quite a lot of time working out how to use the crux handjam!! I redpointed the route next go and it felt like 25. However considering that I'd had to spend time working out the handjam I graded it 26.

Obviously consensus grading applies. If 10 other people think that it's only 25 then we should consider downgrading. But the person who onsights it should have the loudest voice.

In summary - don't get hung up over the grade. Sure it's important, but enjoying the route is more important.

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