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 Post subject: Beal rope
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:52 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Lukas Malan
I read the thread about Mammut vs Bluewater ropes (http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30233&t=6061) and it seems Bluewater and Edelrid are quite popular around here. How does Beal compare in popularity?

From the little I looked at the different rope makes, it seems Beal usually has lower impact force (by a fair margin) when compared with other rope makes of the same diameter, but at the price of a little more dynamic elongation. Wouldn't the lower impact force be more ideal for trad?

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 Post subject: Re: Beal rope
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:29 pm 
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Not that it matters, but beal is quite popular methinks.

You mean static elongation right? Dynamic elongation is good, static elongation is less desirable, because it makes jumaring a little tougher and you have to climb more after resting on the rope. The more the dynamic elongation, the smaller the impact force, but the bigger the risk of running out of air.

Yes lower impact force is better for trad. Lower impact force is better for falling in general really.


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 Post subject: Re: Beal rope
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:52 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Lukas Malan
Cool. I was just asking because I'm buying a rope and I was really impressed by the specs on Beal ropes. I've settled on the Top Gun (right now longevity is more important to me than drag and weight :afro: ).

I meant dynamic elongation as in extension on first fall. On the diameters I checked Beal is usually between 37% and 40% (I think 40% is the max allowed by UIAA), while the other ropes with greater impact force is around 30% - 33%. I suppose on a really large fall from the right spot this difference can determine whether you crater or not? However 1kN less impact force sounds really nice (that's almost 2kN less on your gear!)

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 Post subject: Re: Beal rope
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:41 pm 
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Over the years (of which there's been a few) I have gone through a fair spectrum of ropes. They've mostly all lasted about the same time (none broke - happily) - even the Mammut for which I mortgaged the house in the belief that it would outlast the house. I've returned to Mammut at least for the quality finish but also to give it another chance at outlasting my brick and mortar. For the pleasure of a Beal I skipped the swimming pool but sadly found its companionship too fleeting.


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 Post subject: Re: Beal rope
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 384
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
My baby-Beal (Edlinger) got fluffy very quickly in the beginning but has not added to the fluff badly since. So it's actually lasting okay. My next rope is a Mammut simply because it was on special and a friend overseas picked one up for me. So we'll see how that goes...


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