New routes at Oudtshoorn

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Real Name: Adam Ludford

New routes at Oudtshoorn

Postby Fud » Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:58 pm

Does anyone have an up to date topo for Oudtshoorn. There are plenty of new lines and link ups that aren't on the most up to date version of the topo.

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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu

Re: New routes at Oudtshoorn

Postby Justin » Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:27 pm

Not a topo but this is from the 'local climbing scene' thread...

Mon Nov 23, 2009
In Oudtshoorn, Jason Temple-Forbes has sent The Quickening (think Highlander). The route is situated to the right of Sid Vicious and goes at grade 28. The route is 40 meters long leaving you with a massive pump for the last few meters of climbing.
Note: You can get down with a 70 meter rope (if you mange to get down with a 60 meter rope let us know)
The routes requires +- 17 draws!

Jason opened the route 2 weeks back and described is as a big journey

Jun 18, 2010
Sean Maasch opened his project Going, Going, Gone (29)
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Real Name: Adam Ludford

Re: New routes at Oudtshoorn

Postby Fud » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:49 am

Thanks Justin
Any idea where Lost Safari, Royal Flush, Menopause and Going Going Gone! are?
Also where is the start for The vice?

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Location: Cape Town

Re: New routes at Oudtshoorn

Postby micky » Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:05 am

Lost Safari - Climb Sid Vicious to the chains and then keep climbing straight up to the next set of chains ie. its the extension

Menopause - Climb bigfoot to the chains then carry on up to the chains of paws

Royal Flush - as for menopause except carry on from paws up to the chains of Lost Safari

Going Going Gone - I stand to be corrected here but i think its the new route to the left of Up for Grabs which finishes almost at the same chains. Not sure about the start but its probably pretty straight up.

The Vice - Starts up Phallic Mechanic or Fing Fang Fly (i think)

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Real Name: Douw Steyn

Re: New routes at Oudtshoorn

Postby douw » Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:06 am

A few of the new routes/extensions (mostly at the main wall):

Hard Play (29). Extension to Squeeze Play. Climb Squeeze Play but do the last couple of moves of Johnny Rotten (through the small undercling roof) instead of Squeeze Play's finish. Then continue up and a bit right above El Nino. Superb. (Jason Temple-Forbes)

The Vice (29/30). Extension to Phallic Mechanic. (Jason Temple-Forbes)

Going, Going, Gone (29). Extension to Fin Fang Fly. Goes to the chains of Up For Grabs. (Sean Maasch)

The Quickening (28). Just right of Sid Vicious. Do the first few moves of Up For Grabs then go straight up the right hand side of Sid Vicious' tufer system. Continue up and right past Sid Vicious' anchors for another 10m. (Jason Temple-Forbes)

The Abominable Douwman (28/29?). New linkup starting on Bigfoot. Do Bigfoot and continue up Paws. At the last bolt on Paws head right through the top of Mama Africa past the chains of Sid Vicious to the top of The Quickening. 35/40m.

Skinny Legs (27). Past the main wall, across the gully, on the wall just left of the cave. Short scramble just outside the cave entrance to get to it. (Jimbo Smith)

Watch out for rope length. A 70m rope only just gets you down from some of them.


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