Big Wall rules/ethics for first ascent?

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Big Wall rules/ethics for first ascent?

Post by Stu » Wed Nov 30, 2005 5:20 pm

What is the generally accepted way of doing it. Can you leave fixed ropes all the way to the top. Rap in from the top to your previous high point? Are there any rules or is it simply a case of opening every pitch no matter in what order as long as they have been done?

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Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Post by Justin » Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:45 pm

Use you hammer as little as possible, try not to place bolts, rivets or pitons (got any copperheads? :) I reckon fixed ropes are ok unless you're going for a one day ascent (they can make for a better nights sleep)

The route should be done from bottom to top to count as an ascent.
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Personally I love bolted belays - they just take the edge off :lol:
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Post by Hector » Thu Dec 01, 2005 1:55 pm

Obviously the best style, as with any route, is ground up, free, onsight with no permanent gear. This usually isnt possible. I reckon the biggest hinderance to ground up big walls is lack of time. Most of us cant take the 5 days off work required to push a single ground up first ascent. I reckon its fair game to work pitches from either the top or the bottom, until each pitch has been done. The first ascent cant, however, be clained until one continuous ground up ascent has been done. We've used this approach for a potential new route on Blouberg. Its a bit easier there cos we dont have the massive overhanging amphitheatres you guys have in the Cape. We spent three days on the wall, sleeping on ledges, to open the bottom 3 pitches, and a few near the top. We then rapped in from the top on a subsequent trip to open one of the key middle pitches. It'll probably need another trip to finish off the remaining 2 pitches and do a complete ascent.

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Post by Stu » Sat Dec 03, 2005 5:05 pm

I found the biggest hinderance to be weight, I thought I could keep it to 20kg, turned out to be 35kg!! Motherfu&%$r I nearly died of heat stroke and dehydration on the walk up and back down. Granted I went up alone and so couldn't spread the load. Next time its definetly a group!!!!!
Speaking of which does anyone know if there is a route or an attempted route about 20m to the left of Armaggedon Time as I came accross an old piton a little ways up. There are no cairns and have seen no mention in Journals or anywhere else. want to know if I am repeating or climbing a new line. Thanks. Now that people know what's being attempted I would appreciate it if you gave some time to try to complete it before trying the line.
I heard there was a stash of water up there anyone know of this, my contribution has been left.

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