Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
They work really well and the 10mm nut are probably as good as any single fixed piece of gear if correctly placed in a correct size hole. They are as strong as normal bolts and gear and therefore safer as they belong on your rack where you know what they have been up to and do not corrode out in the open.
REMOVABLE BOLTS Climb Tech Distributed exclusively by Liberty Mountain, RB's are one of the most innovative pieces to hit the market in years! Not only do RB's cut down on drilling time, but they are inconspicuous and can handle up to 3,700 lbs of force, making them as strong as conventional bolts. RB's have already gained a dedicated following among aid climbers and are just beginning to find a home on more conventional routes. RB's are "gear to get you there!" Available in three sizes.
http://www.mountainlandclimbing.com/rem ... p-207.html
REMOVABLE BOLTS Climb Tech Distributed exclusively by Liberty Mountain, RB's are one of the most innovative pieces to hit the market in years! Not only do RB's cut down on drilling time, but they are inconspicuous and can handle up to 3,700 lbs of force, making them as strong as conventional bolts. RB's have already gained a dedicated following among aid climbers and are just beginning to find a home on more conventional routes. RB's are "gear to get you there!" Available in three sizes.
http://www.mountainlandclimbing.com/rem ... p-207.html
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
In the tradition of the Spork.....
Will this combination of Sport and Trad be known as Spard ?
Nifty gear though....same idea as the ballnuts i guess.
Will this combination of Sport and Trad be known as Spard ?
Nifty gear though....same idea as the ballnuts i guess.
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
A few questions:
Where is the best/cheapest place to buy them online?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it effectively for aid?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it for a safe placement on lead?
So there are 3 sizes? I take it that's to fit 12, 10 and 8mm holes?
Where is the best/cheapest place to buy them online?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it effectively for aid?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it for a safe placement on lead?
So there are 3 sizes? I take it that's to fit 12, 10 and 8mm holes?
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
According to the manufacturers they only come in one size for climbing - half inch, this means drilling a half inch hole (fat). Can one get imperial drill bits here?
http://www.climbtech.com/web/products_climbing.aspx
Read this review - not exactly an endorsement!
http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Pages/Tec ... Bolts.shtm
Also this: caver dies when RB pulls out!
http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/n ... ccrpt.html
Tortuga titanium bolts are now back in stock at Liberty Mountain. As I predicted the price has increased just a little to $35 a piece - ouch. But if you really must have something that will never rust.
http://www.libertymountain.com/shop/index.asp?c=186
http://www.climbtech.com/web/products_climbing.aspx
Read this review - not exactly an endorsement!
http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Pages/Tec ... Bolts.shtm
Also this: caver dies when RB pulls out!
http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/n ... ccrpt.html
Tortuga titanium bolts are now back in stock at Liberty Mountain. As I predicted the price has increased just a little to $35 a piece - ouch. But if you really must have something that will never rust.
http://www.libertymountain.com/shop/index.asp?c=186
Last edited by XMod on Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
It's as safe as any one piece of gear....
- Justin
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Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Ok, so there is a new generation of removable bolts out there...
New Features:
* Two spoon shaped wedges wrapped around an conical shaped end fitting.
* Better holding power
* Less hole deformation
* New cleaning bushing for easy removal after being loaded
Suggested Retail $55.00
Check out Climbtech.com for more info.

New Features:
* Two spoon shaped wedges wrapped around an conical shaped end fitting.
* Better holding power
* Less hole deformation
* New cleaning bushing for easy removal after being loaded
Suggested Retail $55.00
Check out Climbtech.com for more info.

Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za
justin@climbing.co.za
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
So the design has been improved, still looks like it will jam if loaded heavily. Also leaves the small snag of finding imperial sds bits in SA - let me know if you find any, Ive looked but no-one seems to stock them. Also three quater inch! Thats about 18mm!!! You wanna drill holes that big in rock? especially by hand!!!!
Give it a rest guys! This is never gonna catch on and it will never ever be as clean and quick as clipping the eye of a nice stonking bolt!
Give it a rest guys! This is never gonna catch on and it will never ever be as clean and quick as clipping the eye of a nice stonking bolt!
- Justin
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Re: Removable bolts
ClimbTech Co-Founder proves the faith he has in his own company's gear by falling 50 feet (though it may have been more like 60 or 70) off a rock overhang. Jeff Jackson, editor of Rock and Ice magazine, also gives his testimony to the faith he has in the ClimbTech Removable Bolt.
-- See the video here
-- See the video here
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za
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Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Sorry for the ad, but Climb Tech's Removable Bolts are available through Vertical Safety Systems: 021 532 0549 http://www.verticalsafetysystems.co.za contact them for your questions.
Sandbagging is a dirty game
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Two things stuck out for me in that video.
1. I'd preferred it if he'd start 25ft above the gear. Seems the dynamics of the rope came into play too quickly. Would have been cooler if he'd built a bit of momentum.
2. Didn't show him removing the gear. I'd be interested to see how hard it was.
zb.
1. I'd preferred it if he'd start 25ft above the gear. Seems the dynamics of the rope came into play too quickly. Would have been cooler if he'd built a bit of momentum.
2. Didn't show him removing the gear. I'd be interested to see how hard it was.
zb.
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
ZAbullet: how often do you take a 70 foot fall on a single bolt? thats nearly a 20m plunge you witnessed!
These devices would have passed the EN spec rendering them safe for climbing etc. If you check out their other videos they demonstrate how to remove the bolt after heavy use. Think of them as Cams: when take a big fall and you can have fun removing it.
Are these systems not superior to regular bolts in terms of damage done?
These devices would have passed the EN spec rendering them safe for climbing etc. If you check out their other videos they demonstrate how to remove the bolt after heavy use. Think of them as Cams: when take a big fall and you can have fun removing it.

Are these systems not superior to regular bolts in terms of damage done?
Sandbagging is a dirty game
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
I sometimes take a 70cm fall (25cm above + stretch) on new glue-in bolts. Its terrifying! I wasn't suggesting they aren't rated or called into question their strength. Unless you are referring to the scientific use of the word "cooler" in my statement "Would have been cooler if...", I wasn't starting a debate, just stating my preference of what I think is cool.Warren G wrote:how often do you take a 70 foot fall on a single bolt?
...but if its a debate on the science you want. Then here we go.
Fall factor as demonstrated on video
Total Rope Out: Roughly 90ft (ground to bolt as an estimate) + 50ft of slack = 140ft
Total fall length: 50ft
Fall factor = 0.3571
Fall Factor if he'd been 25ft above the bolt.
Total Rope Out = Roughly 90ft (ground to bolt as an estimate) + 25ft of slack = 115ft
Total fall length = 50ft
Fall factor = 0.43478
As you can see 0.43478 > 0.3571. Therefore = Cooler.
BTW if you want my definition of a cool product test see this
http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Ge ... r_243.html
If you're not committing to 120ft with only 70ft out.....you're not proving anything

I will look at them and report my scientific opinionWarren G wrote:If you check out their other videos they demonstrate how to remove the bolt after heavy use.

I haven't tried them, but think they are possibly a great alternative. For the record: I think they are a cool product....and I mean that in the scientific sense.Warren G wrote:Are these systems not superior to regular bolts in terms of damage done?
zb.
Last edited by zabullet on Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Hey Warren, how about a demo for testing??
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Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
I own some of the old RB prototypes but haven't used them.
I was very interested to see the redesign, and contacted Karl Guthrie - founder of Climbtech.
I asked:
I was very interested to see the redesign, and contacted Karl Guthrie - founder of Climbtech.
I asked:
Karl replied:I saw the video of you taking a fall onto the 3/4" RB. How easily did that come out afterwards?
I asked:Very easy, just a tap on the cleaning bushing with a hammer and punch and it came right out without any damage to the bolt
Karl Guthrie
Founder, Head of Sales
Karl replied:What about the redesign and what size RB he recommends
-GrahamYes the RBs have been redesigned. The double wedge design has a superior holding. They also have a cleaning bushing that slide along the cable. It makes cleaning stuck RBs very easy. You can visit our website and there is a link on the home page taking you to videos. Look at the RB video on drilling and cleaning.
Yes the RBs work great for top anchors and environmental anchors. I would recommend the ½ Climbing RBs. If you want heavy duty top rope anchors then the ¾ / 19mm Multi-Use RBs will work.
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Justin: although this had acoured to me this wouldn't be easy for me to organise as i don't work for VSS. i am willing to bet if someone was willing to take the plunge they would contribute towards the bolt. Yes, this video would be cool! LOL
As we are debating for entertainments sake in ZABullets reply he calculated the fall factor: I would have thought that this fall would have been a 1 as the one end was attached to the anchor and the other to the "climber" and he fell from next to the anchor? Perhaps i need to watch the video again...
As we are debating for entertainments sake in ZABullets reply he calculated the fall factor: I would have thought that this fall would have been a 1 as the one end was attached to the anchor and the other to the "climber" and he fell from next to the anchor? Perhaps i need to watch the video again...
Sandbagging is a dirty game
Re: Removable bolts are actually round slider nuts
Are you doubting my ability to NOT DO WORK and spend the day watching climbing videos? He's definitely got a belayer below him.Warren G wrote:As we are debating for entertainments sake in ZABullets reply he calculated the fall factor: I would have thought that this fall would have been a 1 as the one end was attached to the anchor and the other to the "climber" and he fell from next to the anchor?
Perhaps you should.Warren G wrote:Perhaps i need to watch the video again...

zb.