Hi Jeff, Dream Street Rose is on a crag the other side of Fish Hoek, Trappieskop is above Kalk Bay. Western Cape Rock is a good source for most of the routes.
For Zoe et al here is an update. Routes that arent in the book are as follows:Dockside
(far left of crag)
Right of Stowaway is Wide Ride
- bouldery start to easier moves, FA marijus Smigelkis.
Routes 7 & 8 (listed as projects) have long since been opened although as yet unnamed, FA unknown.Line 7
is about grade 23
- nice dyno with cool finishing moves, two possible topout options.Line 8
is about 25
- thin and a little necky, make sure your belayer is awake!Neptunes Cove
Left of Cling Thing is Hang Thang
about grade 20
- you can preclip the first bolt if you like from the ledge on the left.
Right of Cling Thing is Kill Bill
- hard reach right off a smallish pocket.Route 12
has been opened at 22
by traversing in from the ledge on the right, I dont think the start has ever been bolted (hope not its a stoopid line).
Right of cave from the raised ledge are a bunch of toprope problems; 18
-flake right of arete, 23
-thin face in the middle, 21
-right edge of thin face, 16
-juggy line right of thin face. My memory is a bit hazy on these lines we did them so long ago so dont sue if Im wrong!
There are single rings (bombproof!
) in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out (!
) the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - dont stand on it!!! - easy to avoid tho.Oyster Box
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting.
Left of Pocket Rocket is a thin face: Heartbreak
if climbed direct, an easier version may exist using slopers on the right, FA Marijus Smigelkis.
Right of Pocket Rocket (18
on topo) is grade 32
opened by Marijus.Blackbeards Cave
Line 24 in topo is Dark Angel
again opened by Marijus, flippin cool line, I botched here by gluing a hold that broke back on, it has since broken again. I ruined a possible truly hard bouldery line by doing this - stupid move, dont glue holds back on ppl its dof.
Route 25 is Xses
opened by myself at 24
from the cheater stones, Marijus has since added a start from the back wall of the cave at grade 27. Both versions are fully worth doing, the easier variation has only one tricky move to a jug haul, very steep.Route 27
has been opened by Marijus at 25/6
(I agree on the grade having worked it a bit) as yet unnamed.
Right thats the update! For moderate climbers heading up there I can recommend doing Sunset Arete (great photo ops!), it doesnt see as much action as it should being a bit away from the other easier routes. There are also numerous other toprope problems all over the crag which have not been written up, take some long slings and a locking carabiner or two for loads more fun.
A note on grades: Numbers given may seem stiif as they are an overall grade and the routes are short so you will have to work for your points! Its actually easier to give the harder lines bouldering grades because essentially thats what the climbing is - bouldering with a rope on, Guy Holwill calls these kind of routes Brutes - apt name!
I dont believe onsight grades work here as the routes are all short and brutal. Warming up by traverisng around in Neptunes Cove is a good idea, otherwise you find yourself pumped and sore after twenty meters of climbing.