Sands of Time bolts

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
Hayden

Sands of Time bolts

Postby Hayden » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:04 pm

Truly awesome climb, just thought that the 1st pitch could do with 1 or 2 bolts on the top half. Agreed that is is really easy and not much chance of a fall but a 20m runout? Surely out of a 1000 climbers one is going to slip and get hurt?

Stu

Postby Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:04 pm

I had thought about that - but now imagine doing that climb over having bolts every say 2m on all the pitches, would you still have enjoyed the climb, I don't think so. Sometimes an element of danger/awarness makes a climb better, keeping in mind that the climb is easy.

Hayden

Postby Hayden » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:05 pm

Sure and part of the fun and experience of granite climbing is runouts and the associated mind games. This is fine as long as there is no danger of hitting the ground. Agreed that a bolt every 2m is not needed, but one bolt on the top half of the 1st pitch would add to a superb well bolted climb?

Stu

Postby Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm

If one were to be placed probably about 3m above the last one as the rest you can literally just walk up.

Hayden

Postby Hayden » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm

Agreed, perhaps next time you at Paarl with your drill we could knock one in. Seeing as I'm the one moaning I would be happy to sponsor the bolt and help place it.

Stu

Postby Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:06 pm

Unfortunatley the new guide has the current bolt count and would like the bolt counts to be correct for now. Also puts doubt about my other routes, are the bolt counts correct, etc.

Doug

Postby Doug » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:07 pm

Come on Stu, that's a pathetic reason for not putting in another bolt. Having guide books virtually tell one how to climb a route is one thing, but dictating on the number of bolts (read safety level) is entirely another! I think your previous reason for not putting in another bolt was better...

Derek Marshall

Postby Derek Marshall » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:07 pm

Hey Stu.. Keeping these WC wan..s happy is a waste of your time. We in the EC would well apreciate the effort that you have put in. Hayden... commiting your self to >R20 stainless is a ...well quite sad. Get a drill and bolt us some routes.

Scott

Postby Scott » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:08 pm

Seems like climbers these days only climb routes that are safe or complain about routes that are not. Well when i started climbing, the routes/people that inspired me to climb(ADK for example) sure as hell were not pussy-whipped. So, if someone puts up a route in that style, why do people always have to criticize? Where do we want the next generation of heroes to come from? Is it all about the grades these days or does style still count for something? I have recently opened my project at Paarl; it is bolted old-school style which in my opinion makes the experience of climbing it all the more worth while. Please do not ask me to put in more bolts. In my book respect for your fellow climbers still goes a long way. Sorry about the rant but it seems that we are taking responsibility away from the climber and putting it into the hands of the FA's. How about we all start treating climbing as a sport, with respect...

Hayden

Postby Hayden » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:08 pm

This is not a question of respect, climbing style or bolting ethics. Its way more simple. There are 4 bolts very close to each other on the first half. Therefore this is not old school bolting. Then a massive leadout to the top. If you fall near the top YOU WILL HIT THE GROUND. Yes, belive it or not, it is possible to slip and fall, even on easy climbing. It just seems strange to bolt the bottom half really well, with a line of bolts, not to have one more bolt to prevent a damaging grounder. Tell me Scott, on your new (opened) project, is there a chance of grounding after the 4th bolt?

Stu

Postby Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:08 pm

This is getting ridiculous. Hayden man, you are missing alot of the points made. Reread the stuff. No one claims this is old-school at all. It's just not sport, just something different. With your logic alot of sport routes all over the Western Cape should be rebolted. The last hard move (grade 10) on Sands oF Time is about 3m above the last bolt, from there you will not fall as you can stand up and walk. I don't think a bolt is needed, however if you want you can put one in, I just think things are a little more interesting (remember grade 10) that way. I don't think Scott will respond as you seem to have missed his points.

Hayden

Postby Hayden » Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:09 pm

Fair enough Stu. Not my intention to dis anybodys (massive) effort in bolting a route, just don't quite agree with the logic of not having a bolt there. Next time I climb the route will try to see it your way!


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